Toughbuilt Sawhorse Clamps

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I needed a way to secure 2x4s to my Toughbuilt sawhorses (C650s, specifically) for stability when building a work table with these sawhorses, without modifying them. Luckily, the endpieces' geometry made this relatively straightforward. Below is an .skp drawing that includes dimensions (for those who struggle with fractions, 7/16" equals .4375") for the blocks themselves. These clamping blocks are meant to be made from scraps of 2x4 using a circular saw, drill, and grinder with a flap disc, but they could theoretically be 3D printed. If that were attempted, the geometry for the hex nut and bolt would need to be adjusted. Instructions: Begin by ripping a piece of 2x4 to three inches wide. If making multiple blocks, use a long enough piece of wood to cut the desired number from. To allow some extra clearance, rip the board to 2 15/16" if needed. Next, set your saw to 45° and cut the end of the board at that angle. Measure 5 7/16" from the acute angle formed by the cut (the long side of the completed trapezoid). If necessary, transfer this mark to the other side of the board. To do so, continue the mark along the board's edge and then measure 5 7/16" more. Use a spade or paddle bit that matches the width across the flats of the hex nut (in my case, 3/4") to drill a hole as deep as the hex nut is thick. If you don't have a drill bit stop, use field expedients like masking tape. The recess will be seated with the next nut later, and when it is, the corners of the hex nut will cut their shape into the block, preventing rotation while in use. For a tighter fit, use a smaller bit, but this may crack the block when the nut is seated. The size of the hex nut also plays a role. Using a spade or paddle bit ensures that the bottom of the hole is flat, allowing good surface contact between the hex nut and the block when compressive forces are applied as the bolt is tightened. Measure the diameter of the bolt's shank and start drilling at the bottom of the relief for the hex nut. This hole doesn't need to be very deep but should provide some additional clearance (at least an additional 1/8" after the maximum diameter of the bit). Flip the block over and finish drilling the bolt hole from the other side, providing nicely finished holes without blowing out pieces of the block. Use a razor knife, piece of sandpaper, or large countersink to clean up the edges of the drilled holes. This will help seating the hex nut in the next step. Place a hex nut over the recess drilled in step six. If the edges of the hole were properly cleaned up, pressing on the nut should cause it to self-center. If not, don't worry – the nut can be seated directly with a hammer, but using a scrap piece of wood is recommended to prevent marring and reduce the possibility of splitting the block. Apply firm pressure to the hex nut using the scrap piece of wood and strike it firmly with a hammer. The nut should be seated in a single blow (be careful not to apply too much force, which may crack the block or the scrap piece of wood). The hex nut should be seated into the block with its top surface flush with the outside of the block. Insert the bolt into the hole opposite the hex nut and ensure it can be started in the hex nut (the bolt may need to be removed to install the block in the endpiece of the sawhorse). The block is now finished. Insert the block into the endpiece of the sawhorse and tighten against the material of choice.