Tool changing for Piper 2

thingiverse

UPDATE: New design is coming along great and will be published soon! It's a more efficient, better performing, and larger build volume due to the smaller carriage. EDIT: Wingnuts are a go! This thing is out of beta now. It works well and will get even better, but it's semi-final for now. Big changes, little update for you guys. I had issues with the SG90 servos breaking, the ServoLocker breaking, so on and so forth. So, a second version has been added. The JheadWINGNUT.stl is the updated part, and the updated instructions are: Don't print the ServoLocker. Bolt a Wingnut to an MG90S servo. Seriously. Use the JheadWINGNUT.stl to print a new jhead mount. For people who have made this already, you can print just the part that docks with the carriage and not the whole Jhead mount. I haven't extensively tested this yet, but if it works as well as it has in testing, I'm taking this thing out of beta. Oh, I also reversed the direction of the servo to lock, so that it tightens the wingnut on a tool grab action. TLDR; Wingnuts! Quick Update: Sorry, due to a math rounding issue the servo topper was off by about 0.4MM New version 3 uploaded Also adding a youtube video of it printing here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=77tm_MiLSDA UPDATE: This is a mod for the Piper 2 3D printer that allows tool changing using the e3d v6 or J head mounts. To make: For the Tools: You will need one jhead print, one 15x4 countersunk magnet, two 6x32 x3/4 round head screws, one cut shorter, a 1/8th by 3/4 inch fender washer, one printed jhead idler mount, two screws to hold the jhead mount together (I used drywall screws I had laying around), and two sharpened 1/4 aluminum rod pieces about 3 inches long. To make the carriage, you will need: a SG90 Servo A printed ServoLocker (mine was printed in SLA for maximum precision) a short piece of 2.85MM filament, I used PETG as it is what I had laying around two springs a printed servo holder a printed servo topper a printed carriage bottom and top two 20mm M3 screws A 15x4 countersunk magnet To assemble the carriage, you will put the servo locker on the servo, then put the 2.85MM filament in. I super glued this all together as I had issues with the parts moving, but I recommend you test moment and fitment before gluing! (these servos are about $2 on Amazon, I felt the glue was justified) Next, put the servo in the servo holder, put the springs in, then screw the servo topper to the servo holder, to the top carriage piece using the M3 Screws. The jheads and mounts should be pretty self-explanatory as they are simple. You can swap the fender washer and screw holding it for a countersunk magnet and a screw that fits into the countersink for extra tool docking force. I found this helpful. Part updates: The v2 servo topper and Jhead pieces have a tongue and groove to prevent y wiggle in prints, which was the biggest issue with quality. I am printing said parts now to test. I will update with more information. V2 of the servo mount was pre-release to Thingiverse and has thicker front walls to keep the springs from deforming the front of the servo mount. Licence Update: Changed to share Alike vs No derivations. OLD: Use 15-4 countersunk magnets, the extra screws from the piper construction, and 1/4 AL rod sharpened on the idlers, and a pair of springs. Assembled pics are coming. I used drywall screws to hold together the Jhead mounts, but you can use M3 and nuts. The Jhead needs to be split in Slic3r to print well. The t cross section in the Servo locker is a piece of 2.85MM Filiment (PETG in my case). The Servo locker was printed via SLA, but can be done in FFF if done carefully. This needs an SG90 servo, and some assorted M3 hardware too. All should be left over from making the piper, sans the magnets and servo and springs. This is a work in progress, write up and parts will be refined as time goes on.