Tire Razor Sanding Plate Reciprocation Machine v1

thingiverse

Update 4/2/2022 - I designed a new version based on my remix for the Tyre True. I'd recommend printing the new one rather than this old one. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5337912 Update 9/22/2021 - Added a longer Arm2 for those with shorter sanding plates, and widened the opening for the foot of the Tire Razor to go into the base. I'd been wanting to make a machine to move the sanding plate of my Tire Razor for a while, but procrastinated long enough for Kev (OXO_cube) to design and share one for his machine. He has a similar machine, but it's not a Tire Razor, so I had to make some modifications. I ended up making a lot more changes than planned, and every part was more or less changed from the original. As the motor can warm up during use, I recommend a temp resistant material such as PETG or ABS for the gantry and arm parts. The rest can be PLA if you want. Mine uses the same gear motor as his does, but I won't provide a direct link. Just search for "GA12-N20" when shopping, and get the lowest RPM you can. Keep the voltage in mind as well, and try to get the lowest RPM at the highest voltage. E.G. a 15rpm at 6v would be good. I also had to get m1.6-0.35mm screws to mount the gearmotor. Since the only ones I could get quickly at a reasonable price were 6mm long, that's what I designed the gantry for, so that they can be snug without interfering with the gears of the gear motor. 5mm or 4mm long screws will probably work fine, but not longer than 6mm. One screw is also used in the end of Arm1, against the flat of the motor shaft, to act as a set screw. The rest of the screws I used are just M3 socket head cap screws as are popular on various 3D printers like my Prusa. Any M3 screw should work, just be careful that the head does not collide with anything prior to use. For most of the screws, I use 6mm, but I would recommend 10mm for the screws on the clamps so they are less likely to strip when tightening the clamps down. The STL files are all provided in the ideal print orientation. Some parts need supports for countersunk screw holes, or other parts that are not supported by the model or the bed. Use your best judgement, or use PrusaSlicer and the provided .3MF file, which I have pre-configured with supports in the needed locations. It should work with any recent version/branch of Slic3r. I also included some replacement pulleys for the Tire Razor in smaller diameters, in case you have wheels/tires that are so small that the OEM pulley hits the sanding plate. They aren't strictly needed, and you might need to find shorter set screws for the smaller ones. A STEP file is also included to make it easier to modify for your particular machine if needed. When attaching the ball joint to the end of your sanding plate, it's best to do so prior to assembling the machine. Snap the Ball-Joint into the Plate-Hitch, and then use a strong adhesive, such as Shoe-Goo, to bond the ball joint to the end of the sanding plate. Note that the Ball-Joint plate is smaller than the sanding plate, so try to get it close to center. It should not be flush to ANY of the 4 sides if the end of the sanding plate. Do this with the whole assembly on your Tire Razor in the sanding plate channel so that all the parts are level. Allow the adhesive to completely set/cure prior to using the machine. The rest of the assembly should be pretty straight forward. Depending on the print, you may need to take a file to the short "ramps" in the sanding plate channel of the base to ensure that the Plate-Hitch, or the sanding plate itself does not hit an edge when at that end of the motion. Assembly Guide Video: https://youtu.be/dj-4EnJuKKc Thanks to Kev for sharing his design! If you would like a machine, feel free to contact me at ggaub@ggaub.com to order one. https://youtu.be/RXRCh7hrpnE