Tin lamp nach Art des Frimmels

thingiverse

I updated the lamp skirt holder part "underkantsring.stl" to make installation and removal easier. It now consists of two parts that snap together - use your fingers to support the snap action to avoid breaking them. The freecad file and corresponding .3mf were also updated. This third lamp is named after a small part of Swedish design history, specifically the Cylinder and Tiffany lamps. Check out https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4267901 and https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4267782 for more information. The lamp includes two 3-color print themes "europeendless" and "tenn50". If you don't have a multi-material (MMU) printer, or no MMU at all, don't worry! You can still print the lamp skirt using single or transparent colors. To print multi-color without an MMU, manually add pauses in the gcode after slicing (check online for instructions) or pause manually during the print. Remember, if you print with layer 1=0.2mm and layer 2 with 0.3mm, there will be only 6 color shifts in total (or 4, if you use back- and foreground colors). It's quite manageable by hand. I found the excellent shape computations for the cylinder not on wikipedia, but in an Austrian pocket calendar from 1970. With my father's help, we uncovered a useful secret that people used to carry around in their pockets! There are two versions of the lamp holder parts with tight (14.1mm) and wide (14.4mm) inside threads. The tight thread is sufficient for PLA with extrusion=1.0, while the wider one is used for WoodFILL with extrusion=1.2. Test print a small part of the thread to ensure you choose the right one. The lamp is set up for an E14 lamp socket found at "Kjell & Co" shops in Sweden. If you plan to use a different kind of socket, be aware that you must redesign the "lampfäste" part (see the freecad source file). Make sure not to overheat the printed parts, so take good care of which lamps to use. I personally use LED lamps of no more than 3W in my constructions. You will also need to buy an electric cable including a connector (I bought mine at "Clas Ohlson" in Sweden). The design is thought to be of a "print and click together" kind. However, be aware that some locks might become tighter or looser than expected when you change filament settings. Test print the lock parts if you're unsure they will fit. If you are experienced with freecad, the settings can easily be changed by altering the numbers in column B of the spreadsheet in the attached freecad document. Whenever you change the thread parameters for the lamp holder, carefully examine a sliced output to ensure it's correct. Finally, please don't forget Gretas hard work even during these days where the virus might be your main focus.