Tiki3 (ver3.2) Dragon for Orbiter 1.5 with adxl1345

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Update 21 Jan 2022: -Till date, I had several requests to design the Tiki3 Dragon mount with a 4010/4020 fan to replace the 3010 fan that cools the hotend. The objective I set on Tiki3 mount system are ease of print, compact, light-weight and efficient. -Looking at the side profile of the dragon or V6 hotend, the window needed to push air through is around 25mmx25mm = 625mm sq. For a 4010 the fan diameter is around 38mm which equates to an area of 1134mm sq. For a 3010 fan with a diameter of 28mm it is 616mm sq. -To install a 4010 fan. The reduction in air path is roughly 2:1. This would mean I have to include proper funneling to reduce the air path which result in the increase the width of the mount, making it not compact. So screw-it and make a short funnel. An axial fan produces low pressure air, when faced with drastic decrease in duct size, back pressure will be a problem. The motor will spin at a slower rpm due to resistance, making efficiency an issue. -For a 3010 fan, the air path is roughly 1:1, hence no funneling needed. If there is a need to push more air through the heatbreak fins (using the HF version), a higher rpm fan is recommended ie. Gdstime sells 3010 fan 24V at 12,000 rpm or 8.4V at 20,000 rpm. -To conclude, I am not going to design Tiki3 Dragon to fit a 4010/4020 fan. This version of Tiki3 (ver3,2) is for Orbiter V1.5 with the Dragon Hotend. It is not mounted to the bracket via the V6 style groove, but rigid mounting using the 4pcs of M2.5 screw that is provided. It cannot be used for Orbiter V2.0 due to the different location of the mounting holes. I have designed 2 sets; one for self-tapping M3 and another for M3x4x6.3 brass inserts. I recommend using the brass insert version if you can. There are 2 versions for the mount. adxl and non-adxl. adxl is for Klipper users who want to install adxl1345. If you are a Marlin user, the non adxl version is better. Please print in high temp filament. PLA and PLA+ will warp at the area closest to the heatblock. I print mine in CF petg. If printing in ABS or any material that will shrink, please remember to scale while slicing. Holes on the self tap version are design at 3mm to accommodate for some shrinkage during print which will come to 2.8mm in diameter. Mount holes BLT bracket, fan duct bracket are slotted for 1-1.5mm for adjustments Shorter version of cable relief added. reduce by 20mm from the original. This is to prevent the cable from hitting the top bar during tall prints. Mainly for printer ie Ender3 and clones Fanduct has a +-2mm vertical and +-0.7mm horizontal for adjustments BOM of screw: -4pcs M3x12 or M3x14 for 3010 fan -2pcs M3x16 or M3x20 for fan duct (washer maybe needed as the slot are larger for horizontal adjustments) -2pcs M3x8 for body_base to ender carriage -2pcs M3x8 for cable relief -4pcs M3x8 for BL Bracket -1pc M3x8 for fan duct bracket to body_top -2pcs M3x20 for mounting the orbiter and orbiter bracket to the body -4pcs M2.5x8 for dragon to Orbiter bracket (it should have come with the dragon) - 11pcds M3x4.6x3 brass inserts. Please get more. BOM -3010 fan (Please use the high static pressure version, those that runs at 8500rpm will not push enough air) -5015 fan BLT offset: X= 35.5 Y=0 Yo can also download the stl from my github https://github.com/thrutheframe/Tiki3_Dragon Contributions My 3D printing hobby is running on Fun-Funds which is usually in fumes state. Contribution to this funds are from small print jobs, servicing 3D printers and the once-in-a-blue-moon tip to my paypal.me account. If you like using this system and would like to thanks me, a $2 coffee tip will be greatly appreciated (I like coffee). Thank you. https://www.paypal.com/paypalme/shannonheng