Thrustmaster T16000M detent mod

thingiverse

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/ApM9hZ6OS8M" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe> This is an adjustable detent mod for Thrustmaster T16000m FCS. I designed this to have the following features: - Adjustable detent position (center detent for full-range throttle, afterburner detents, etc.) - Easy to remove and re-apply - Adjustable magnetic strength resistance **Parts needed:** - Base (choose one) - Rear-bias (20-70% thruster range) - Front-bias (35-100% thruster range) - Carrier Plate 1 - Carrier Plate 2 - Handle Attachment - Lock - 2x M4x12 Bolts - 1x M4x8 Bolt - 3x M4 Nuts - 2x M3x12 Bolts - 2x [Neodymium magnets (15x6x3mm)](https://www.amazon.com/15x6x3mm-Retangle-Multi-use-Refrigerator-Projects/dp/B07QJ6YPM7/) Use **Base (Front-bias).stl** if you need a more forward-oriented detent (e.g. afterburner). Both bases support center detents just fine but if you only require a center detent, print the **Base (Rear-bias).stl** since it requires less filament to print. If you need more than one detent (center and front), print two sets of the **carrier plates**. This will require another set of the M4 nuts and bolts as well as another magnet. Only the **base** and the **handle attachment** will require supports. Print all the components as is, especially the handle attachment to avoid [elephant's foot](https://all3dp.com/2/elephant-s-foot-3d-printing-problem-easy-fixes/#what-is-elephants-foot) on the opening, making the magnet unable to fit. The design works as is for the magnet listed above. However, i've included the step file for the **carrier plate 2** and **handle attachment** in case you want to modify it to fit magnets with a different size/shape. The fitting for the magnet should be very tight to avoid unnecessary wiggles. I had to use a mallet to insert mine, but I could still remove it with pliers. If you do modify the step files, **make sure there is enough clearance to allow the base to flip over**. The **lock** serves two purposes. One is to prevent the base to flip over when the magnets repel each other (especially for powerful magnets). The other reason is to change the sound it makes when the magnets meet. The tighter the lock is pushed in, the less sound it makes. I personally have it a little loose because I want to hear a distinct sound when I am using a VR headset. **Instructions:** 1. After printing all the parts, assemble everything as shown the the assembly image before attaching the base to the thruster. Remember to insert the magnets at this point. 2. On the underside of the thruster's handle (left side), remove the two screws. Since the clearance is very small, a screw driver will not fit. I had to use a detached [screwdriver head](https://www.amazon.com/SKIL-89033-Piece-Screwdriver-Bit/dp/B000HLGPFG) to remove it. If you don't have one of these, you may have to get creative or disassemble the thruster completely. 3. Attach the **handle attachment** (with the magnet already in place) by inserting the M3x12 bolts into the holes left behind by the screws you just removed. This should be easier than removing the screws since an M4 Allen wrench fits in the clearance. 4. Open the bottom panel of the thruster and remove the useless aluminum rod on the left side. 5. Position the **base**'s rod in the original position of the aluminum rod and close the bottom panel. 6. Adjust the position of the **carrier plate 1** sitting on top of the **base** to position the magnet along the thruster's axis. 7. Adjust the position of the **carrier plate 2** sitting on top of **carrier plate 2** to adjust the separation distance between the magnets. 8. Enjoy.