TheUltiPad - a 23 Key Number Pad/Macropad with Rotary Encoder

prusaprinters

<p>I really liked the <a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4175635">dumbpad designs</a> i made earlier when i was using my full 104 key keyboard, but recently switched to a Drop CTRL tenkeyless as my daily-driver....and i found that i missed the numberpad functionality for a few specific daily tasks</p> <p>So i designed a numberpad, that also had all the functionality as the macropad app launcher - with the rotary encoder.....</p> <p>Therefore---TheUltiPad was born! (something, something, unimaginative name)</p> <p>Shown next to the CTRL for size comparison - its a little taller than i wanted, but had to add some height to account for the pro-micro along with the hand-wired switches, rotary encoder and LEDs.</p> <p>I will be uploading the raw QMK firmware folder and my hex shortly, I'm not yet in a position to fork and commit the files, but it forks well and is derived from the dumbpad firmware.</p> <p>The LEDs display Num-Lock at the top of the three, and Layer indicators above each of the layer switches - they are setup as TT() keys so they are both momentary and toggling.</p> <p>Parts List:</p> <ol> <li>23x Cherry MX switches of your choice (i use some Cherry blacks that i had)</li> <li>If you choose Costar or Cherry MX Stabilizers (i removed the Alps Stabs topas the bar collided with the switches, and i am using it fine without stabilizers)</li> <li>the really nice mxuteuk 35mm machined aluminum knob from Amazon</li> <li>3x 5mm LEDs (and appropriate resistors) i used <a href="https://www.radioshack.com/products/12v-led-assembly-with-6mm-holder-red?variant=20332063173">these from radio shack</a> -radio shack PN: 2760084</li> <li>Diodes: In4148 - you can get a cheap 100 pack from <a href="https://www.amazon.com?linkCode=ll2&amp;tag=thingiverse09-20&amp;linkId=e4759bff1fa9a55a0f897d801ce2d765&amp;language=en_US&amp;ref_=as_li_ss_tl">Amazon</a></li> <li>EC11 Rotary Encoder: Here is a 10 pack of EC11's from <a href="https://www.amazon.com?linkCode=ll2&amp;tag=thingiverse09-20&amp;linkId=e4759bff1fa9a55a0f897d801ce2d765&amp;language=en_US&amp;ref_=as_li_ss_tl">Amazon</a></li> <li>Pro Micro: 3-pack from <a href="https://www.amazon.com?linkCode=ll2&amp;tag=thingiverse09-20&amp;linkId=e4759bff1fa9a55a0f897d801ce2d765&amp;language=en_US&amp;ref_=as_li_ss_tl">Amazon</a></li> <li>Any USB Type B Micro cable for the Pro Micro</li> <li>4x M4x12mm socket head machine screws</li> <li>Various wire, soldier, etc. etc.</li> </ol> <p>Firmware notes:</p> <ol> <li>UltiPad.hex (precomiled firmware)</li> <li>UltiPad.zip (firmware folder for QMK build env.)</li> </ol> <p>If you want to use the compiled hex:</p> <ol> <li>The Keypad is the numpad as labeled</li> <li>The 4 top keys as PREV, PLAY, NEXT, STOP.</li> <li>The rotary encoder is Volume Up and Down, with the button as MUTE.</li> <li>The two bottom keys are setup as TT(1) and TT(2) (both a momentary and a toggle with double tap)</li> </ol> <p>a. Layer 1 sets all the numbered keys (0-9) as LCAG(1), LCAG(2), etc. and i use autohotkey as an app launcher for LeftCtrl, Alt, Win + a number</p> <p>b. Layer 2 sets all the numbered keys (0-9) as LCAG(A), LCAG(B), etc. and i use autohotkey as an app launcher for LeftCtrl, Alt, Win + a letter (a through j)</p> <p>Unzip the UltiPad.zip into your QMK folder in your build env, and modify/compile your own keymap.</p> <p>Let me know how you make out!</p> <p>Edit, added a slightly shortened bottom half (by 3mm) its the bare minimum to fit my internal parts.</p> <p>My other stuff (mostly Keyboards) <a href="/revere521/designs">https://www.thingiverse.com/revere521/designs</a></p> <h3>Print Settings</h3> <p><strong>Printer Brand:</strong></p> <p>Monoprice</p> <p><strong>Printer:</strong></p> <p>Maker Select</p> <p><strong>Rafts:</strong></p> <p>No</p> <p><strong>Supports:</strong></p> <p>Yes</p> <p><strong>Resolution:</strong></p> <p>0.2 mm</p> <p><strong>Infill:</strong></p> <p>20%</p> <p><strong>Filament:</strong> Hatchbox PLA</p> <p>Black</p> <p><strong>Notes:</strong></p> <p>Supports for the bottom (for the screw holes if your printer doesn't bridge well) and for the Cherry/Costar Stabilizer Top (for the switch opening overhangs)</p> <h3>Post-Printing</h3> <p><strong>THIS IS REVERSED SO IT MATCHES WHAT YOU SEE WHEN LOOKING AT THE BOTTOM OF THE TOP PLATE</strong></p> <p><strong>Hand-wiring Help</strong></p> <p>Wiring help - this is my best effort to match the wiring to the firmware and what I did on my prototypes - please proceed with care, i did my best with the diagram but offer no hard guarantees that i didn't mix up any pins here (just a disclaimer)</p> <p>First wire the array on the backs of the switches - columns of wires and rows of diodes following the black and red paths in the "Wiring" image, and the blue and green paths in the diagram.</p> <p>Here is a good hand-wiring guide to see the concept for the switch array: <a href="https://deskthority.net/viewtopic.php?t=6050">https://deskthority.net/viewtopic.php?t=6050</a></p> <p>For the Rotary encoder, the "2 pin side" is the push button for mute, the "3 pin side" is for the actual rotary encoder (left and right turning)</p> <p>I installed mine so that the 2 pins face the lower edge - so that its a straight shot from the pin to the switch below for the column; since the button function of the encoder is treated like one of the key switches in the array.</p> <p>Notice that column 5 is just the one Fn switch (the whole column is just the one pin on the switch), and column 4 is 1 switch and the one of the pins on the 2 pin side of the rotary encoder. The other pin on the "2 pin side" of the encoder is part of the diode row 1</p> <p>You need to solder a wire to the end of each diode row to the corresponding pin on the pro micro; and one from the end of each column to the corresponding pin as well - that creates your switch array</p> <p>In the zip file for the firmware - config.h calls out the row and column pins (and all the other pins in use)</p> <p>These are the rows 0 to 5 -&gt;</p> <p>define MATRIX_ROW_PINS { D7, E6, B4, B5, F4, F5 }</p> <p>These are the columns 0 to 5 -&gt; notice that the order of the columns is physically reversed when soldering from the bottom of the plate, because it is upside down.</p> <p>define MATRIX_COL_PINS { D3, D2, D1, D0, D4, C6 }</p> <p>The Wiring Diagram are shown reversed to make it a little easier to look at - meaning its how it looks from the bottom when you are soldering so it should be:</p> <p>Rows top to bottom are 0 - 5; so row 0 would be pin D7; row 1 would be E6, etc.</p> <p>Then the Columns are left to right -&gt; 5 to 0 when looking at the bottom/soldering side of the plate; so Column 5 would be C6; Column 4 would be D4; etc.</p> <p>the ground of the encoder (center pin on the 3 pin side) is wired to the GND on the pro micro (along with the negative/cathodes of the 3 LEDs)</p> <p>The pin on the "volume up side" of the encoder goes to the pro micro pin F6</p> <p>The pin on the "volume down side" of the encoder goes to the pro micro pin F7</p> <p>The LEDs may each need a resistor on the anode/positive side depending on your choice. Remember that raw voltage through the pro micro is 5v max, the LEDs i chose were 12 volt, so they did not need a resistor.</p> <p>The single NumLock LED - the anode/positive then goes to the pro micro pin B3</p> <p>The 2 lower LEDs for layer indication - the anode/positive legs are connected to pin B2 and B6 (when looking at the bottom/solder side of the plate) - the Left one goes to B2 and the Right goes to B6</p> Category: Computer