The1987Lite - A Handwired 65% revision of The1987 TKL with OLED and RGB!

prusaprinters

<p>Since my first published keybboard was The1987 (https://www.printables.com/model/299777-the1987-a-modular-retro-inspired-87-key-mechanical) and it's fairly popular, and its designed around the Phantom circuit board and Teensy 2.0, which are no longer available, i felt it was time to take the design concept - and make something new! good for all of us right?</p><p>I wanted to recreate this keyboard that pulled from 80's design styles - especially consumer electronics, PCs and video game systems. I still love the 80's grey everything that my 12 year old self drooled over and i needed to recapture it again. So like the designers in the 90's - i took the successful 80's design, made it smaller and added some lighting and gadetry and called it the something something Lite! Exciting!</p><p>the name was originally a play on the TKL (87 keys) and the 1980's ... but whats in a name...its the though that counts...not shamelessly playing on the popularity off a thing while loosing a little of the meaning right?</p><p>i don't know, let me know what you think in the comments</p><p>Parts list:</p><ul><li>67x Cherry MX style mechanical key switches</li><li>A set of Keycaps - I used these awesome videoarcade themed ones <a href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08T9BJ34H?psc=1&amp;ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details">https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08T9BJ34H?psc=1&amp;ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details</a></li><li>I had a Proton-C available, so the firmware is there if you have one, as well as a bottom case</li><li>Or A Keeb.io Elite-C <a href="https://keeb.io/products/elite-c-low-profile-version-usb-c-pro-micro-replacement-atmega32u4">https://keeb.io/products/elite-c-low-profile-version-usb-c-pro-micro-replacement-atmega32u4</a> or Elite-Pi <a href="https://keeb.io/products/elite-pi-usb-c-pro-micro-replacement-rp2040">https://keeb.io/products/elite-pi-usb-c-pro-micro-replacement-rp2040</a></li><li>18x Ws2812B RGB LED Modules <a href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DC0J3UM?psc=1&amp;ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details">https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DC0J3UM?psc=1&amp;ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details</a> (way more than enough light, and no power issues)</li><li>1x 0.91 Inch I2C OLED screen <a href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08L7QW7SR?psc=1&amp;ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details">https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08L7QW7SR?psc=1&amp;ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details</a></li><li>67x IN4148 diodes - i keep these around <a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079KJ91JZ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1">https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079KJ91JZ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1</a></li><li>8x M3x12mm pan head machine screws (to assemble the case)</li><li>2x M3x6mm pan head machine screws (to attach the feet)</li><li>8x M3x4x5 Brass threaded inserts (to heat insert into the TOP PLATE screw holes)</li><li>Clear or White filament for the bottom of the case i used this</li><li>Various wire, soldier, etc. etc.</li></ul><p>Print Settings</p><p>Anycubic Large Size Chiron</p><p>Rafts: No</p><p>Supports: Yes</p><p>Resolution: 0.2 mm should be fine</p><p>Infill: i used 15%</p><p>Filament brand: Hatchbox Gray PLA and Clear for the first 4mm (I used Sunulu Clear PLA)</p><p>Notes:</p><p>Print the Bottom plate to about 4mm in clear and switch to your filament from clear to a the Grey or a color like i did.</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>Post-Printing</p><p><img src="https://cdn.thingiverse.com/assets/3a/d1/84/6e/35/9be8684a-bd40-487d-ae10-c8601207642b.jpg"><img src="https://cdn.thingiverse.com/assets/03/00/8a/95/ab/2525495f-21c7-45d9-ba28-2e214c16e667.png"></p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>The Column to Row wiring diagram is reversed, so it appears just as it would when you have the back of the key plate facing you during soldering.</p><p>Then the Column and Row numbering in that image correspond to the pin assignments in the Elite-C and Elite-Pi pin-outs</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>RGB and OLED:</p><p>For the OLED, i had to bend the pins slightly to add some clearance inside the case, YMMV<br>The OLED Displays Layer Info,, Lock Keys (CAP , SCR, and NUM) and the RGB Mode, Color Saturation and Color Value numbers</p><p>For the RGB Buttons, i glued the mount discs and then wired and hot-glued the buttons into place. The firmware provides for 18 (you can use fewer if you choose, but some animations may have a gap). I paced 8 across the front edge, 3 on each side, and 4 across the back.</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>Key Map:</p><p>The Key Map is essentially the same as TheAlternate and match the keycaps in the photos - these are the function keys:</p><p>Fn+Q = resets the keyboard (no bootloader)<br>Fn+R = Resets to bootloader for flashing<br>Fn+the number row = F1 through F12 (Minus and Equals are F11 and F12)<br>Fn+P = Print Screen<br>Fn+[ = Scroll Lock<br>Fn+] = Pause<br>Fn+Del = Mute<br>Fn+Home = End<br>Fn+Right Arrow = Insert<br>Fn+PgUp = Volume Up<br>Fn+PgDn = Volume Down<br>Fn+Caps Lock = Cycles RGB Modes Forward (Adding Shift Reverses)<br>Fn+A = Cycles RGB Hue Increase (Adding Shift Decreases) - this only applies to some modes<br>Fn+S = Cycles RGB Saturation Increase (Adding Shift Decreases)<br>Fn+D = Cycles RGB Value Increase (Adding Shift Decreases)<br>FN+F = Toggles RGB On and Off</p><p>&nbsp;</p>