The CIY Tester 68 Special - A Gummy Worm-Mount Keyboard Case for the Tester 68

thingiverse

INTRODUCTION: This is a gummy worm-mount case for the CIY Tester 68, an excellent barebones keyboard kit that can be purchased for about 12.50 USD on Taobao (excluding shipping). It is great in its stock form, and is also a great platform for modifying. I've posted two versions of the case here: one with a penrail and one without. I've also posted a model of the penrail (which you can use as-is or modify) for those who want an accent piece but are unable to source the specific Taobao cabinet door handle that I used. Finally, I've posted an extension/cover for the stock on-off switch, because the original switch became too difficult to reach in the new case. PLEASE NOTE: THE CONVERSION PROCESS IS DESTRUCTIVE; THE STOCK CASE WILL LIKELY BE DESTROYED AS A RESULT OF THE CONVERSION. It requires you (1) to pry out the metal battery contacts from the original case (I irretrievably damaged the plastic prongs holding the contacts while doing this) and, if you intend to gummy worm-mount the plate, (2) to trim the outside edge of the stock plate silicone, so that the gummy worm can fit between the plate and PCB without hindrance. ACCORDINGLY, PLEASE PROCEED AT YOUR OWN RISK. If you are not inclined to cut the plate silicone or don't have an appropriate gummy o-ring, you can also rest the plate directly on the ledges on the inside of the case. The keyboard still sounds and feels pretty good this way. I tried to find an alternate battery cage with JST connector, so that I didn't have to destroy the original case, but was unable to locate an appropriate one. JANUARY 31, 2022 UPDATE: While swapping cases, I managed to break one of the leads to the battery contact prongs, underscoring just how fragile they are. To fix this, I stripped some of the wire coating from the end of the broken lead; lifted up the battery contact; inserted the newly exposed wire under the contact; pushed the contact back into place, thus securing the lead; and then un-knotted the two leads (which are tied together by default), to compensate for the loss of slack from the wire going under the contact. The keyboard works fine after this fix. INGREDIENTS: - CIY Tester 68 kit (specifically, the plate, PCB, plate foam [optional], battery contacts with JST connector, stock USB dongle). I purchased mine on Taobao (https://item.taobao.com/item.htm?spm=2013.1.w4004-24132882369.19.4e6f25a1qluJNq&id=652102082248) for about 12.50 USD (before shipping). - The 3d-printed case posted here. - [Optional] A gummy o-ring. I used an AS568-261 171.04*3.53, but you can use whatever gasket material you have lying around, such as a length of silicone tubing of about 4 mm in diameter, or you can just rest the plate directly on the ledges in the case. Unfortunately, the Taobao vendor from whom I purchased the o-ring seems to have shut down operations, so I'm unable to provide a link here. - [Optional] Bathroom cabinet door handle, purchased on Taobao (https://detail.tmall.com/item.htm?id=626809219301&spm=a1z09.2.0.0.4f1c2e8dzVMl8m&_u=i20rh52k821b&skuId=4442549429553) (item T5109-224-T字). ○ Two M3 x 12 screws. The ones included with the Taobao handle are too long. The screws are optional because the handle can be friction fit into the case. ASSEMBLY: 1. Disassemble the stock Tester 68. A. Remove the 8 (or so) screws holding the plate to the case and lift out the plate. B. Remove the plate silicone. C. Remove the 2 (or so) screws holding the PCB to the case and lift out the PCB, taking care to disconnect the JST connector from the PCB before fulling lifting out the PCB. D. Carefully pry out the metal battery contacts from the plastic prongs in the stock case. N.B. I destroyed the prongs while doing this. I also bent the contacts somewhat, but was able to flatten them a little before inserting them into the 3d-printed case. Also, the slots in the 3d-printed case are large enough to accommodate slightly bent contacts. 2. Print out either the Penrail or No Penrail version of the case posted here. If your printer has sufficient build volume, you can print out the whole case (either version) all at once. If your printer has insufficient build volume, you can print out the case (either version) in three pieces. I would recommend printing out the parts upright, to reduce pixelation. A. [Optional] Print out the on-off switch extender/cover. B. [Optional] If you are printing out the Penrail version of the case but are unable to source the Taobao cabinet door handle that I used, print out the 3d model of the penrail posted here (either whole or in two pieces). 3. Insert the battery contacts into the new case. 4. Insert two AAA batteries into the battery well. 5. [Optional] If you plan to use a gummy worm-mount, insert switches into the PCB/plate assembly. They will prevent the o-ring from disappearing into the assembly. Place the o-ring around the perimeter of the assembly, in the gap between the plate and PCB. A. A gummy o-ring is not necessary. You can use whatever dampening material you have lying around, such as a length of silicone tubing of about 3.5 mm to 4 mm in diameter. You can also omit the dampening material entirely and place the plate directly on the ledges inside the case. B. If you intend to (A) use the stock plate silicone dampener AND (b) simultaneously use a gummy o-ring, you will need to trim the outside of the dampener so that the gummy o-ring can placed around the plate and PCB without impediment. 6. [Optional] Place dampening material at the bottom of the case and/or tape mod the PCB. 7. Connect the JST connector to the PCB. 8. Place the 3d-printed on-off switch extender/cover on the on-off switch. 9. Lower the PCB/plate assembly into the case, such that the o-ring (or plate, if you are not using an o-ring) is resting on the ledge running around the inside of the case. 10. If you have printed out the Penrail version of the case, you can either use the cabinet door handle mentioned above, or you can print out the model posted here (either in whole or in two parts). With respect to the Taobao handle, you can either screw it in with two M3 x 12 screws or friction fit it into the case. The 3d-printed version of the penrail can only be friction fit (or glued, if you prefer). TO DO: Reduce the length of the pcb/plate cavity by about 0.5mm. The current cavity is just slightly too long.