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I wanted a sturdier printer because the acrylic frame of the Anet A8 isn't very stable, but I didn't want to buy the aluminum profile since it's too expensive for my taste. So, I modified all the AM8 parts so that I can mount the supports on smooth 2040 metal profiles. Since making a hole in a precise spot after welding is hard because it's difficult to get the printer into position, I made the parts slightly adjustable (+/- 1 cm of adjustment) so that you can precisely fine-tune the rod positions for the Y axis. All the other parts will fit perfectly in place if the printer is properly welded. The Z upper supports were designed to satisfy both those who prefer free-rolling rods and those who like bearings on top, with space already available for 608zz bearings. All the parts are modified from the original AM8 project, and I tried to make them as similar to the Prusa MK2 as possible. I think I succeeded. I'm using Marlin 1.1.8, a stock extruder, and Slic3r Prusa Edition with Prusa MK2 settings and acceleration, and it prints perfectly - even with lowered stock Anet jerk set to 10, which is the same setting used on the MK2, and at a 100mm linear advance setting. I've also made some additional improvements: - I've added adjustable feet so that you can print in TPU without increasing noise levels. - You can mount your power supply unit (PSU) and mainboard outside of the box or next to the printer. I use https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2199806 since I have two PSUs, but you can also put everything into a box with https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2536142. - When welding in spot, it's essential to create a mask that keeps the profile in place to ensure perfect alignment. - The Z motor mount and upper Z mount have more holes than needed so that they can adapt to thinner profiles. In my case, I've used three screws in the upper mount and two screws in the motor mount, and it's stuck - it will never move. - I recommend using stainless steel auto-perforating screws.