Taurus TCP "Wallet" Holster

thingiverse

DISCLAIMER: It is your responsibility, and your responsibility alone to observe safe-handling of firearms and compliance with any applicable laws. This object may not be legal where you live, and is not guaranteed to be safe to use. While I believe that it is safe, and it is designed with safety in mind, improper printing, handling, and/or failure to observe firearm safety rules may result in situations leading to injury or death. There's a leather wallet holster available for the Taurus TCP that makes it easy to carry in a pocket without the outline looking like a gun, and is designed to allow the gun to be fired while the "holster" is on it. While it's great for what it does, it has three problems from my perspective. First, it has only one finger hole in the holster to grip the gun - this limits control. Second, the gun can rotate in the holster somewhat, which it does readily after each shot, which impacts the accuracy of follow-up shots. Finally, it has no built-in trigger guard. A trigger guard IMO is a critical component to safe pocket carry to prevent accidental operation of the trigger while in the pocket. This holster is designed to solve all these problems. It solves the first two problems by "going away" when readying the gun to shoot. It solves the final problem by incorporating a robust trigger guard. Again - safety is 100% your responsibility and I'm making no guarantees that this design can't fail in an unsafe way. If you see any possible safety issues or room for improvement let me know. I can't think of everything. That said, I believe it is most likely impossible for anything to break in a way that would allow the trigger to move while the holster is on the gun. When drawing the gun use the grip shown in the last picture (sort of a modified Vulcan salute) and press with your middle and ring fingers to grip the handle. This will force the holster off the gun and it should pop off assertively, leaving nothing but the gun in your hand. The retention is designed to be adjustable. There are four different height spring cups for the grip-side plunger. I recommend using mild to moderate retention strength there. The barrel-side plunger uses a retained M6 square nut and 10mm M6 set screw to adjust tension, accessible via the shaft at the bottom of the holster. Tighter tension on the barrel-side plunger generates solid retention of the holster, and you'll want to dial it in so that it doesn't fall off on its own, but your hand strength is still enough to force the holster off without undue difficulty. Assembly is simple, and follows the progression in the pictures above. Parts list: 2x 8mm by 20mm springs (I used light bed-leveling springs I had extras of) 4x M3 screws with flat conical heads (not sure where I got them, these are 12mm overall length) 1x M3 barrel-head screw, length is optional. My springs are 10mm fully compressed, so I wouldn't want more than 12mm screws (10mm for the spring, with 2mm for the cap). 1x M6 square nut - model allows for 5mm thick, 10mm square 1x M6 set screw (10mm length recommended) Important: while printing you MUST put a pause at the layer just before the nut is covered up. Look for the small "box" cavity in-line with the shaft running all the way through the holster. You need the printer to stop just before the layer that covers that up. Simply drop the square M6 nut in at that point, and allow the printer to continue and seal it in permanently. The barrel-side plunger spring cup is the one with the hole in the bottom. The barrel-head M3 screw goes in here to hold the spring and provide a hard point for the set screw to work against. Stick the M6 set screw in the hole at the bottom and run it in with a wrench until it engages the nut inside the base. The plungers are "keyed" so that they only fit in the correct way. Try the various grip-side spring cups (the ones that don't have holes in the middle) with the grip-side plunger and spring. Use one hand to hold the plunger down into the base so it won't pop up/out and squeeze the plunger in, compressing the spring, with the other hand. It should be firm, but not hard to squeeze. (This will vary on the strength of your hands and your springs.) Screw the top on firmly, but don't overtighten (you're threading into plastic and you don't want to strip it out.) Snug, not "tight". With the gun unloaded (SAFETY FIRST) test installing and removing the holster. Tighten barrel plunger using set screw as needed. Again, if you aren't entirely satisfied with the safety of this item do not use it.