Tang Band W3-1876S Subwoofer Enclosure, 4 Parts

thingiverse

I wanted to print this awesome design by HexiBase on my Ender 3 but the two halves were too big to fit on the build plate so I split each one into two smaller sections. The two sections are joined together via a tongue and groove arrangement, making alignment easy and creating an air-tight joint. There are two versions of the sections with the driver opening; HB3S_10A and HB3S_20A have mounting holes large enough to accept M3x4x4 threaded brass inserts and HB3S_11A and HB3S_21A have smaller holes for regular M3 self-tapping screws. Both versions also include ten holes for fastening the two sections together with M3 x 18 machine or self-tapping screws. Note: The photos are of the first remix where the two sections are of equal width, but I've since changed it so that they're unequal, offsetting the seam line for better strength and a better seal. The .STL files reflect this change. Instead of using JB Weld, a very strong glue, I used either clear Gorilla glue or thick CA with an accelerator. Both work well, but the CA only gives you 30 seconds or so of working time before it sets. I haven't had time to fully assemble one yet (I'm making two) but I did test this before all the sections were permanently glued together just to get an idea of how it sounds. I used a TPA3116 based class D amplifier with an adjustable subwoofer roll-off. Even though the enclosure was far from being air-tight, other than the port, of course, it sounded great. It's never going to be as good as a sub with a larger driver in tonal quality or volume level, but given its 3" size, it's amazing. I'll be pairing up each enclosure with a Tang Band W3-2141 full-range driver for a compact speaker system that will blow my friends away. Thank you to those who downloaded my remix, but I found an error in parts HB3S_10A, HB3S_10B, and HB3S_11B. The holes for the screws that secure the two sections together were too big, so I corrected the mistake. I removed the old .STL files and reposted the revised parts, which are designated HBS_10A, HBS_10B, and HBS_11B. Please redownload these updated files. This thing wants to push a lot of air, so make sure all joints are aligned and sealed well. When gluing the two sections together, lay some wax paper or plastic wrap on a flat surface, place the two sections flat on the surface with glue already applied, then push the two sections together. Lightly tap the tops of both sections with a plastic mallet or block of wood to make sure they're flat against the surface. Use clamps to hold them together until the glue dries. When gluing the top and bottom sections together, use a generous amount of glue, even on the wave guide walls, because you don't want any air leaks in these either. Even though these walls are on the inside of the enclosure, if there are any air leaks, you'll hear it coming out of the rear port. I didn't use enough glue on my first enclosure, so now whenever there is a lot of low bass in the music, I can hear chuffing and hissing coming out the port. It's driving me crazy enough that I'll probably make another enclosure. Be sure to use some kind of gasket or liquid sealant such as silicone when installing the speaker driver. Using just screws is NOT enough to seal the driver from air leaks. I emphasize how important it is to get a good seal on all joints with this thing. With the amount of air that little driver is moving, you WILL hear any leaks. This little monster is a beast! HexiBase hit it out of the park with this one.