T8 Leadscrew Driven I3 Printer modification

thingiverse

I've finally completed a test assembly, correcting several issues that had plagued me with things like endstops and parts needing adjustments in order to achieve success with assembly. I also added provision for cable drag between the heated build platform and the chassis so wires don't get pinched. This takes the form of a tab on the Y nut holder and a small piece on the feet where the drag chain can be attached. This has not yet been incorporated into my test build. At time of writing, I have the frame and axes assembled, with Marlin 1.1.x firmware configured to move motors at 400 steps/mm (4000steps/mm for the Z axis). By happy coincidence, I was able to use the existing frame to hold the gantry, which was not intentional but happened to work out this way. I had intended to change to a box frame. The problem is that the feet were not entirely suitable for holding the frame at the correct offset to achieve the correct printable area. I added some spacers to the feet file in order to handle this, though I'll use a different method for testing, and I may change my mind for the full production model if I get good results from testing. Original summary follows: Redesign of my 3D printer when I got sick of problems with belts and tensioners. Redesign to make use of T8 leadscrews instead of timing belts. Still uses Nema 17 motors. You probably don't need to use the feet if you have a RepRap I3, that can be left alone. The motor holder file should be all that's needed to convert the Y axis. You will probably need a complete change of the gantry in order to use the X and Z files, but I'm annoyed enough at my printer that I don't care. I've included endstop mounts for switches with mounting screws 0.75" (19.05mm) apart, with the switch perpendicular to the mount. The only provision is for a 3mm screw/nut on one of the Z axis motors, centered 15mm below the top surface, alongside the smooth rod. This should be easy enough to rig something up, and I'll put together something with a reasonable range of adjustment when I get this put together. Of course it will depend on how you mount your print head for what's reasonable for a range of adjustment. NOTE: I have not yet finished building this, so this should be regarded as Beta, if not Alpha. I believe that this is ready to try at least, and I intend to use it as-is.