Synchro Z axis of the Creality Sermoon D1

thingiverse

Synchronization of the screws of the Z axis of the Creality Sermoon D1 Recently, fascinated by its beauty, I bought a Sermoon D1, the new "full enclosed" printer produced by Creality. It was not a brilliant idea because the printer immediately presented many problems, some easily solved, others less so. To begin with, the printer arrived with the end-stop of the Z axis broken (a widespread problem but not bad because a microswitch is easily available) and with a printing surface whose planarity is so indecent to the point that I was forced to apply several pieces of aluminum foil under the plate to restore it to its best. The printer itself is very quiet, but this value is affected by the right side wall in plexiglass which vibrates due to the lack of two stupid stops on the base. Problem solved by printing two "L" in Petg and inserting a rubber washer between them and the plexiglass! But these are small problems that a "maker" is certainly able to solve quickly and with little expense, something different is the chronic loss of synchronism of the two screws that operate the Z axis controlled by two separate steppers. Initially I thought that the Vref of the two steppers was badly adjusted and effective, checked the fiirmware, I realized that the Imax was excessive, albeit with the same value established for both motors. It was thanks to Nino Libunao's post, published on the facebook page dedicated to this machine (Worldwide Creality Sermoon D1 and V1PRO at https://www.facebook.com/groups/426106328584215/) that I finally solved the problem. Not having available an aluminum 2020 profile and not having the desire to drill the base plate of the printer, I designed and built a belt tensioner to be printed in Petg and glued to the surface with a high tenacity double-sided tape (I recommend the 3m VHB tape 4611F ). As you can see from the images, the adjustment is double in fact both the excursion of the slide, stopped with two M3x8 screws at the base glued to the top, and the support of the pulley 20T-GT2 are adjusted. Note that the pulley moves on an 8-16-5 type ball bearing and that the adjustment of its support must be understood as a fine adjustment. In fact, it is advisable to adjust the slide until the pulley comes into loose contact with the belt and then, by adjusting its support, bring the belt to the right tension (it must not be too tight, which can cause excessive strain on the motors). Obviously you also need two 20T-GT2 pulleys to be installed at the base of the two screws (see photo). In addition to the molded pieces, therefore: - 3 identical 20T-GT2 pulleys; - 1 GT2x6 810 mm "loop" belt (if it is longer, the anchor point of the belt tensioner can be moved away, but without exaggerating!); - 1 ball bearing 8-16-5; - 2 M3x8 flat head screws; - 1 M3x40 screw, better M3x50) with hexagonal head; - 3 M3 nuts; - a piece of high tenacity double-sided tape; Thanks to this simple trick, I no longer have to adjust the printer bed for weeks (..... try it!) And the print quality, despite having poorly performing profiles, is extremely improved. The other problems I'm trying to solve are: - development of print profiles for different materials on a slicer like IdeaMaker since Cura, of which Creality Slicer is a clone, I don't like much (even if it works very well!) - creation of a plexiglass lid, equipped with suction and Hepa filter, since its absence from the factory makes this printer a semi-closed and not a full-closed one as advertised; - installation of 1 mosfet for heating the printing plate because, at least from what we read, exceeding 80-90 ° C there is a risk that the control board literally goes on fire (for the hot-end I will come later if necessary to safely exceed 260 ° C); - installation of an automatic printing surface leveling system (BLtouch) since Crality has released a new firmware that seems to work;