SwitchHook Door Tool for COVID-19

thingiverse

SwitchHook (V3.1)\r\n=================\r\n\r\n**Update: 4/15/2020:** A new version has been published.\r\nhttps://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4287635\r\n--------\r\n\r\nThis hook tool helps open doors with a manual flip-open action, similar to a Swiss Army knife.\r\nWhen closed, the hook is mostly enclosed to prevent contamination transfer.\r\n\r\n**Features:**\r\n-------------------\r\nMeasures 106mm x 55mm x 23mm (4.2" x 2.2" x 0.9") when closed.\r\n\r\nThe hook fits:\r\n- Round handles up to 33mm in diameter.\r\n- Keypads with keys as small as ~6mm.\r\n- Lever handles, generally.\r\n- Push-flap and push-bars on doors using the V-groove on the tip.\r\n\r\nHook is not designed for round doorknobs.\r\n\r\nPress the button to unlock the hook, which can be flipped open with a wrist flick. Do the same to close. The button locks the hook in the open or closed position when released.\r\n\r\nHas non-slip texturing to help pull open heavy doors.\r\n\r\nDoes not require hardware; the center peg is printed and driven in with hammering. However, a #8 machine screw of 1" or two #8 machine screws of 0.5" may be used instead for smoother flip action.\r\n\r\n**Print multiple sizes of pegs:**\r\n----------------------\r\nMultiple center-peg sizes are provided...\r\nSince all printers have different tolerance specs, it is recommended to print them all and choose one that fits.\r\n\r\nThe intended hole diameter is 4.0mm, and the pegs are supplied in 3.3-4.0mm (excluding 0.4mm increase in flaring diameter). For me, the 3.9mm diameter one worked. Most printers will probably be fine between 3.6mm and 3.9mm. But more are included just in case.\r\n\r\nThe pegs have flared ends on purpose and are designed to be a tight fit. The peg not only acts as an axle for hook rotation, the flares keep the two flat faces of the enclosure apart. Otherwise, they pinch the hook during rotation if you squeeze too hard, making it difficult to flip out the hook. The hook should flip out freely with a wrist flick while holding down the button. If the two enclosure sides are too close and contact the hook, try sticking a screwdriver between the hook and enclosure wall to introduce a thin gap.\r\n\r\n**Warning:**\r\nPins, once hammered in, cannot be removed. Start with the smallest pin and work your way up, or you will risk a partially inserted and stuck pin.\r\n\r\n**Known issues/areas of improvement for next version:**\r\n------------------------------------------------------------------------\r\n- Requires a support to be cut out from the area between the button cantilever and the rest of enclosure. This can be eliminated with a slight tweak.\r\n- A spacer (in the form of sticking a screwdriver tip or folded paper between hook and enclosure wall) may be required to prevent hammering down of the center peg from squeezing the enclosure walls together on the hook, making too much friction for the hook to flip open freely. This can be fixed by adding spacing piece to be used while hammering.\r\n- The lower C of hook is obsolete and doesn't serve a purpose. It can be eliminated to also eliminate need for support while printing this part.\r\n- Walls of enclosure could probably be thinner.\r\n\r\n**Disclaimer regarding "switch-" name:**\r\n------------------\r\nSorry, people familiar with knife terminology. This is technically not a switchblade, since that would require it to be powered by a spring. It's closer to a flip-open folding knife in design.\r\n\r\n**Let me know if there are any mistakes in design. This is a work in progress which I thought is better to be "out there" than perfect.**