Sushi Roll Game Parts Tray

thingiverse

Sushi Roll is another game that falls short on packaging. It really needed at least a cheap plastic tray to keep bits and pieces organized, but companies will shave off manufacturing costs by omitting it if they can. That's where this community steps in. I'm not one to leave well enough alone and be grudgingly accepting of eight plastic baggies to keep tokens and coins sorted. So, here's my take on a parts tray for Sushi Roll. It holds all the coins and chits in a manner that makes them easy to sort and store. They are easily retrievable from their individual wells. The whole tray comes out and goes in the middle where all players can reach it so no one person has to be the "chit bank" and dole them out to everyone. It fits in the original box and packaging and is kept from sliding around too much by the player cards. And it has a lid to keep everything in place during storage and transport. I use eight 6mm x 2mm cylindrical magnets to ensure the lid stays on nicely. I use these quite a bit, so I order a bunch at a time from Amazon to keep on hand. The magnets can be found here: **Deryun 180 Pack Refrigerator Magnets for Whiteboard** Please note that the magnets in the middle are off-center due to keeping this a compact design to fit in the box. So make sure you get the lid in the correct orientation when closing it. **WARNING:** Be extremely careful with your magnet pole orientation! You need to make sure the poles are correctly aligned to attract the lid to the tray. Also, printers and print settings will vary, and the magnets may be nice and snug in the slot, or they may go in fairly easily... it is advised to dry-fit the magnets before gluing them in - snug is good, but you don't want to have to use extreme force to press them in. You can carefully shave the walls down with an x-acto blade if necessary. You can use a sparse drop of CA glue in each slot or the tiniest dollop of 5-minute epoxy and press each magnet in. I'm including two versions of this model: * Split versions with left and right pieces for smaller format printers. For the tray you'll want to print 2 of the triangular "big splice" pieces, and 2 of the triangular "small splice" pieces (3 of each, if you're like me and prone to dropping one irretrievably into the black hole that is the back of my printing table). The "big splice" are for the two holes near the bottom, the "small splice" are for the holes near the top. For the lid, print only one of its splices... it's meant to bridge the gap on the three sides where the two lid pieces meet. A bit of 5-minute epoxy will make the multiple parts as one. Be careful not to get glue in the magnet holes until you're ready to glue those in last. * Whole versions that can be printed as a single piece for larger format printers. Also, a note to say that I've tried many different variations of shape and size for splice pieces, and I've gotta' say my recent foray into using the triangular shape has me well pleased. It's easy to print flat so you don't have an obvious shear weakness along the radius like you do with a cylindrical splice that needs to be printed upright, and it acts like a keyed join to increase the accuracy of part alignment.