Super Simple Single Screw Camera Mount - CR-10 ...

thingiverse

Like what I did with the alliteration in the title of this model? Ha! Now, let's get down to business. I say single screw, but I kinda lied. The mounting is a single screw, but you need to screw the camera onto the mount as well. You have to admit that it sounds better than Super Simple Two Screw Camera Mount. I made this for my CR-10S Pro, and it might fit other Creality models, but the hole has to line up. I would imagine any CR-10 would work for this mount. I wanted my camera to be fixed and move with the bed for super duper timelapses. I use Octolapse for Z-change and timed timelapses. I also wanted light so I can turn off lights around the house at night. My setup is a CR-10S Pro with a Wham Bam bed. I removed the original clips that held the original bed and used one of the holes for my mount. I drilled two holes in the magnetic base of the Wham Bam bed for the screw holes in case I wanted access later. The one on the right (as I am facing it) is where I mounted my camera. I used an M3 screw and a nut to fasten the mount. That's it! You could apply some double-sided sticky tape to the mount to add extra hold if you desire, but I like to be able to remove stuff and don't know how the tape would hold up under the heat. It has been working for the 10-15 prints so far with spectacular results. Okay, the lights. How did I accomplish lighting? I looked at lighting around the nozzle. I looked at surrounding lighting. I looked at pointing lamps at the print surface. Nope, didn't like 'em. I came up with this little piece that I could insert 7 x 5mm white LEDs into. I plug it directly into my Octopi next to the printer. Boom! USB lights. You might ask, "How did you wire all of that junk?" Let me tell you. All LED anode are connected together and all of the LED cathode are connected together (parallel). I cut an old USB cable and wired the red wire to a 220 ohm resistor. I connected the other end of the 220 ohm resistor to the anode side of all of the LEDs. I then connected the black wire to the cathode side of the LEDs. Now, when the Octopi server is up, my lights are on. I can unplug the USB if I want, but who really wants no light? How does it work? Well, I like the outcome. The lighting works really well for 7 little LEDs. The resulting timelapses are impressive and meet my expectations. I don't have to leave all of the lights on anymore. Yay! The mount has a little loop where you can wire tie the cables to the fixture. It goes back and forth, and the lighting is uniform. I can't complain. If I did, I would just be talking to myself. That's dumb. Hardware required: If stock bed for the CR10S-Pro (you'll still have the M3 nut): A Tapered / Flat Head M3 x 20 If Wham Bam with the "I drilled a hole in the magnetic mat" mod (you'll still have the M3 nut): A Tapered / Flat Head M3 x 16 For the camera (I used the 1/4 x 20 on the bottom of my Logitec 615 or whatever model it is) and light bar: 1/4 x 20 x 1/2" For the camera without the light bar: 1/4 x 20 x 3/8" Wow! Look at that versatility! Simple is awesome! My prints of these parts look gnarly because I had a messed-up brass nozzle after printing wood filament. Don't judge me on my print quality, please, as it has been corrected as of late.