Stephs Direct drive extruder for i3 Rework/Wilson V2

Stephs Direct drive extruder for i3 Rework/Wilson V2

thingiverse

This is an updated version of my extruder, designed using the awesome tools from OnShape. source: https://cad.onshape.com/documents/575b0c1ce4b0366acbd8a05f/w/6d607119412f8b4186dd2a1f/e/7517a7d5cebf41394236f059 Post-Printing Requirements 1x 624zz Radial Bearing 1x M4 16mm Button Head Screw (Yes, it needs to be button head). 1x MK8 Extruder Drive Gear 5x M3 25mm Screws 2x M3 50mm Screws 2x Springs for M3 Screws 10x M3 Washers 2x 20mm Screws 4x M4 Nuts 4x M4 20mm Screws (length will vary, these are for mounting to the carriage) Clean Supports and Drill Holes You need to drill holes out and remove some support material. The Idler Hinge uses an M3 Washer on both sides. Install the hotend first! Before attaching the motor or drive gear. Install the hotend and feed the PTFE tube down through the hotend. Follow the directions from E3d to make sure the tube is completely seated. You can use tweezers to lock in place the collet. Then trim the top of the PTFE tube to match the contour of the idler bearing and drive gear. Use another piece of PTFE tube and put it in the top (filament entrance) hole. You can use superglue to hold it in place. Trim the top tube to your liking, you can have it go all the way to your spool, or trim it flush with the top of the extruder. The motor mounting screws might need 1-2 washers depending on your stepper. Don't over-tighten these, you're likely to damage the threads on your stepper motor. Following these instructions will make it difficult to remove your hotend after assembly. It would require a complete disassembly of the hotend to remove the PTFE tube. I recommend assembling your hotend first, leaving an extra length of tube coming out from the hotend. Trim this length so the hotend can slide into the groove mount. Then take another piece of PTFE tube and slide it down to butt up against the tube on the hotend. This will allow easy disassembly. I recommend you bevel the inside of the tubes where they meet with a knife or other tool to allow for some alignment offsets.

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