Steel String Guitar, Take 2

prusaprinters

<p>See it in action:&nbsp;</p><figure class="media"><oembed url="https://youtu.be/v3aeKj2nCo4"></oembed></figure><p>This is an improved of my original printed guitar (<a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:710561">http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:710561</a>). It is printed with 15% carbon fiber filled PLA, which is about 50% stiffer than regular PLA. I've also added slots for aluminum ribs in the X-bracing to keep the top from warping over time, and a head-to-heel aluminum truss rod to prevent neck warp.</p><p>This guitar requires a big printer - at least 14"x14".</p><h3>Print Settings</h3><p><strong>Printer:</strong></p><p>UDIO</p><p><strong>Rafts:&nbsp;</strong></p><p>No</p><p><strong>Supports:</strong></p><p>No</p><p><strong>Resolution:&nbsp;</strong></p><p>0.2mm</p><p><strong>Infill:</strong></p><p>35%</p><p><br>&nbsp;</p><p><strong>Notes:</strong></p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>The body prints as 4 separate pieces, and the neck prints as 2 pieces. The upper top and the lower top both consist of two separate parts: a shell and an infill. The shell prints normally with 3 perimeter lines a 0.3mm first layer followed by 0.2mm layers. The infill is a grid pattern that prints as part of the shell, but it prints with no solid top layers, no solid bottom layers, and no perimeter lines - just a 6% triangular infill pattern. The shell and infill parts should be loaded into your slicer with out any additional offsets so that the stay lined up relative to one another.</p><p>The back pieces prints with no bottom layers and a 12% triangular infill pattern.</p><p>For those interested, here's a video of the custom built printer I used to print this guitar:<br>&nbsp;</p><figure class="media"><oembed url="https://youtu.be/hdju_6XEHZ4"></oembed></figure><p>&nbsp;</p><h3>Post-Printing</h3><p><strong>Assembly</strong></p><p>You pretty much need some lutherie skills to build this guitar, but here are a few brief notes for the ambitious:</p><ul><li>All the mating pieces glue together with gel-type cyanoacrylate glue.</li><li>The X-braces have slots for 1/16" thick aluminum braces. I shaped these freehand as shown in the photos, but they are about 0.6" tall.</li><li>There is a 5mm thick hardwood bridge plate that goes into the triangular pocket below the X.</li><li>The bridge is both glued and screwed in place with two 4-40 screws.</li><li>There is a heel plate that goes between the body and the heel of the neck. I designed it with a 1/2 degree angle, but you can shim it with tape to slightly adjust the angle of the neck.</li><li>The aluminum truss rod is formed with a 1/4" thick plate that fits into a slotted 1/2"x1/2" square rod. The two are pinned together with steel dowels. (See Solidworks part.)</li><li>I've used extra-light strings because the fixed aluminum truss rod gives a little too much flex with regular light gauge strings.</li></ul><p>I'm happy to answer any questions about construction details as they come up.</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>Category: Music</p>