Star Trek Original Series - Hand Phaser Type I - Midgrade

youmagine

Replica Phaser Type I prop from the original Star Trek series. This is the "midgrade" version (detailed enough to be seen in close-up, but no moving parts or electric components); a "hero" version is also planned, and I plan to make a Type II body that these will fit into.I've included bodies for both the original version from early first season and the Wah Ming Chang screen-friendlier redesign used throughout the rest of the series.For the early version, print "Midgrade P1 Body - Early Season One", "Midgrade P1 Thumbwheel", and "Midgrade P1 Emitter".For the later version, print "Midgrade P1 Body", "Midgrade P1 Thumbwheel", "Midgrade P1 Emitter", "Midgrade P1 Crispy", "Midgrade P1 Rail 1", and "Midgrade P1 Rail 2".There's also a "unibody" version of the latter for those who hate printing multipart models, though it would make painting somewhat more tedious, and I suggest using supports for the bottom of the thumbwheel (the bodies are intended to be printed vertically, with no supports).NEW: I've added by request, a "Midgrade P1 Body - Hollow" for SLS printing services. This version passes Shapeways checks for all plastic options currently available.Modeled in Blender using reference photos from "The Making of Star Trek" (which included a ruler for scale along with the top, bottom, and side views of the prop), and numerous HD screencaps from trekcore.com.========== Print Settings ==========Rafts: NoSupports: NoResolution: 0.1mm layersInfill: 25%Printing Notes:I printed all parts without supports or brims, except for the "crispy".========== Assembly Steps ==========1. Finishing\nApply a clear coat of varnish to protect the print from dust and scratches.2. Glue togetherUsing clear epoxy, glue the thumbwheel into the rectangular depression on top of the phaser, and the emitter onto the front, in the hemispherical space provided under the front detail.For the later version of the phaser, also glue the rails into the slots on the sides and the "crispy" at the front of the rectangular depression on top.3. Gauges\nPrint out the file "TOS Phaser I Gauges.png" at 600dpi. Coat both sides of the printout with Mod Podge (or similar acrylic sealer) and allow to dry. Cut out either one "1" square and one "10" square (for the early version of the phaser) or one of the graduated gauges.For the earlier phaser, use clear epoxy to affix the "1" label to the front square on the right side of the phaser body, and the "10" label to the rear square (see pictures for reference).For the later phaser, cut an 8.5mm segment from the 19mm rod. Then cut that almost in half (2mm off of center). Polish all cut edges of the smaller piece using successively finer sandpapers (as detailed in finishing step 1). Use clear epoxy to affix the graduated gauge to the flat rectangular edge of the gauge cover. Once that has dried, use clear epoxy to affix the gauge to the top of the phaser body, opposite the thumbwheel.4. Power Indicator (optional)\For a power indicator on the later version of the phaser, I used an Esslinger jeweled dustproof watch crown refill (4.5mm, Tap 10, Yellow w/ Blue). I drilled with the next smallest size down and used a small round file to enlarge the hole until the crown would sit flat on the phaser top. Place the hole between the thumbwheel and the gauge, just a millimeter or so rear of center.This feature didn't appear on all phasers, so it is an optional step. Color choice is also up to the user (of the two phasers shown in "Assignment: Earth" - one had a blue crown and the other had a red one.).5. "Trigger" (optional)Some phasers had a bright silver "button" on the underside (http://tinyurl.com/jgvzz69). It's about the perfect size and shape for a cylindrical neodymium magnet 8mm diameter by 3mm high (5/16" diameter by 3/32" high), which can be used to affix the phaser to a ferrous or magnetic surface for display.Use clear epoxy to glue the magnet into the circular depression on the bottom of the phaser.