Star Trek Enterprise PADD

thingiverse

Hello. This is my first post so I hope I get it right...\r\nBefore you go on know that I have no CAD or 3D experience at all - this was a complete first. \r\nHere goes.\r\nI love the hands-on look and feel of the show Enterprise so I thought I might try my hand at making a prop. I used: Inkscape, Autodesk Fusion 360, and Cura to design and print it. The materials were PLA plastic and a hobbyist-grade 3D printer.\r\n\r\nThe prop was a replica of the Enterprise's control panel. It had several buttons, switches, and screens that lit up when pressed or activated. I used a variety of techniques to create the different components, including 3D printing, laser cutting, and hand assembly.\r\n\r\nI started by designing the prop in Autodesk Fusion 360. I created a detailed model of the control panel, complete with all the buttons, switches, and screens. Once I was happy with the design, I exported it as an STL file and sent it to my 3D printer.\r\n\r\nThe printing process took several hours, but the result was well worth it. The prop was sturdy and looked just like the real thing. I was impressed by how well the PLA plastic had turned out - it was smooth and had a nice texture to it.\r\n\r\nNext, I moved on to the electronics. I used a variety of components, including LEDs, resistors, and capacitors, to create the lighting effects on the prop. It took some trial and error to get everything working properly, but in the end, it was worth it.\r\n\r\nI also added some extra details to the prop, such as a coat of paint and some weathering effects. This gave it a more realistic look and feel.\r\n\r\nOverall, I was really happy with how the prop turned out. It was a fun project that challenged me in new ways, and I learned a lot about 3D printing and electronics in the process.\r\n\r\nParts/Purchases List----------------------------\r\n\r\n01] The 2 square FAUX switches are:\r\n3M mounting fixings [aka bumpers]\r\nhttps://www.mouser.com\r\nMouser #: 517-SJ-5008GY \r\nMouser #: 517-SJ-5008WH \r\n\r\n02] Glue for Serial Number Sticker\r\nE6000 glue; clear, flexible adhesive\r\n\r\n03] Glue for bottom ribs\r\nSuper Glue\r\n\r\n04] Sanding Papers [3M]\r\n-1st- 180 grit\r\n-2nd- 320 grit\r\n-3rd- 400 grit\r\n-4th- 800 grit wet\r\n\r\n05] Primer; spray\r\nRust-Oleum Sandable Primer; all purpose-Fast drying\r\n260737 sandable primer white\r\n\r\n06] Paint; spray\r\nSupli-Color; Stainless Steel\r\nSS100 Stainless Steel\r\n\r\n07] Screws, 4 total\r\n4-40, 1/2" Phillips Countersunk\r\n{Note: use a 7/32 drill bit, drilling ONLY the depth of the cutting 'point angle' allows the screw to go flush}\r\n\r\n08] Mold making & Casting Material; two-component silicone putty\r\nhttps://www.michaels.com/easymold-silicone-putty/10184918.html\r\nEasyMold Silicone Putty\r\n\r\n09] One: 14mm Marble or other sphere\r\nUsed with casting material to make half dome at top\r\nOr purchase a Plastic Pearl, Half Dome, 5mm\r\n\r\n10] Two Part Epoxy, Clear \r\nused to make the half dome from marble cast\r\n\r\n11] One: 3v, 5mm, Blinking/Flashing/Color changing L.E.D.\r\n\r\n12] One: 4mm x 8mm slide switch\r\n\r\n13] 26AWG Wire: about 2-3 feet\r\nRecommend: One Red insulation (+) One Black insulation (-)\r\nSuggestions:\r\nhttps://www.allelectronics.com/item/26rd-100/26-ga.-red-hook-up-wire-stranded-100/1.html\r\nhttps://www.allelectronics.com/item/26bk-100/26-ga.-black-hook-up-wire-stranded-100/1.html\r\nhttps://www.allelectronics.com/item/hw-50/red-and-black-hook-up-wire/2-x-25/1.html\r\n\r\n14] One: CR2032 (or equivalent) 3v coin cell battery\r\n\r\n15] One: CR2032 (or equivalent) 3v coin cell battery holder\r\nSuggestions:\r\nSearch this www site and print one!\r\n\r\n16] Plumbers foam pipe tape\r\nacts as a cushion between bottom and plastic stopping any movements \r\n\r\n20] Miscellaneous\r\nSoldering iron, solder, hot glue gun, and a variety of other tools.