Spot welder transparent case

prusaprinters

<p>This is a shell for a common Chinese spot welder (search for “spot welder 99 gears” on your Chinese marketplace of choice). I did this to try out the “glass” printing technique with clear filaments - it works, but it also takes a very long time. I have enclosed the gcode for the two shell halves, and also my settings for printer and filament.</p><p>If you don't care about this and just want a case, ignore my settings and print with standard settings. The case won't be clear, but you will be able to read the display through it.</p><p>Print both halves one after another (which should produce results with better transparency). Insert 4 M5 heat-set inserts into the sockets. Don't push them in too far, make them level or slightly protruding from the plastic, this should help make better contact. Put the cable contacts underneath the print board and screw them down nice and tight with four short M5 flathead screws. Put the other half on and make sure it is assembled correctly (there's a “lip” on the lower half that slips inside the top half, which helps with case integrity). Use either countersunk M3 screws or countersunk 3mm wood screws (about 16mm long) to secure the case.</p><p>I printed mine on the smooth PEI sheet with a smooth glue film - put a couple of lines of glue stick on the sheet, spray water on it and dissolve the glue lines with your fingers, leaving a continuous film. Place on an even surface and let dry (I use the printing bed warmed up to about 60°). That way you get an even surface you can polish without (much) sanding. The inner “window” surface needs to be sanded and polished to be perfectly clear, but it's not a must. I coated the surface with some epoxy, in hindsight I should have just polished it.</p><p>If you want to work with your welder for longer periods, keep in mind that it is enclosed and may warm up. If you need to, drill some vent holes in the case above and below the Mosfets.</p>