Sovol SV01 top mount spool holder dry box
thingiverse
Top-mounted spool holder and dry box designed for mounting onto the 2020 V-slot Z gantry of the SV01 printer. The design can be easily adapted to many other printers with a similar style, such as the Creality CR10. This spool holder does not have any provision for filament runout sensors since they are not used. It is relatively lightweight but adds extra weight to the gantry, so it is recommended to add some bracing to prevent wobbling. The door has perspex inserts with a foam seal, while the small side window also features perspex and allows users to see the remaining filament on spools that are not transparent or do not have sight slots. The right compartment holds silica gel packets. To assemble this design, you will need the following components: * 4 x M4x12 (or M4x14) countersunk screws * 1 x M4x16 countersunk screw * 5 x M4 nuts * 6 x M5x16 countersunk screws * 6 x M5 T-nuts for V-slot extrusion * 2 x 608ZZ bearings * 1 x 3x110mm rod (you can use bamboo skewer, brass, or aluminum rod, or even an old knitting needle) * 1 x sheet of 3mm perspex at least 260x240mm in size * 1 x sheet of 6mm EVA foam about 260x240mm in size * Double-sided tape * Glue (super glue or similar) The nuts, screws, and bearings are self-explanatory. The rod is used for the hinge pin and should be left a bit longer so it can be easily removed if needed. The perspex is used for the door and side window, while the foam is used for the door seal. This spool holder requires a significant print area, covering almost the entire build plate of the SV01 printer. If your print area is set to the default value (280x240), it will not fit. To accommodate the design, you need to increase the Y-axis setting in your printer settings to at least 255. All parts can be printed without supports and should be oriented correctly, except for possible x-y rotation. It's recommended to print two lever latches and one of each other part. The body and door can be printed with any resolution, but a higher resolution (0.28mm) is suggested for the spool holder and its support in the back, as well as the thicker section of the base that bolts onto the rail. For these sections, it's recommended to use 4 walls and 20% infill. The spherical bearing filament guide should be printed at a high resolution (0.12mm is fine, but go to 0.1 if you prefer). A small amount of silicone grease will help it move freely and reduce noises. You can also come up with an alternative way to pass the filament through. The latches need to be printed at higher resolutions as well (0.16mm is fine, but going to 0.12 wouldn't hurt). If you experience adhesion issues, try running a skirt around them with a tiny offset (say 0.15 or even less). Templates for cutting the perspex door and window are included, along with instructions on how to use a Dremel with a 3.2mm straight router bit and guide collar to cut both. Apply double-sided tape to the foam before cutting it out. Otherwise, you can cut them however you like (jigsaw, scroll saw, CNC router, water jet cutter, etc.). Clean the edges of the perspex with wet and dry sandpaper and glue it into place with a little superglue or similar. Once the perspex is in the door, stick on the foam seal.
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