Solidoodle 2 Complete upgrade

thingiverse

Most every upgrade I have made to the Solidoodle 2 has been useful for the Solidoodle 3 as well. One part missing, though, is the small L-shaped plate that hits the endstop switch - yes, very important - will upload later. Will update and add directions as requested; marked as work in progress since there's always room for improvement, but as is, the parts are working very well on my printer, with around 100 hours of print time logged since the upgrade. I'm able to print at higher speeds while retaining surface detail - 40mms works on most prints with a max of 60mms for travel, which used to top out at 30mms and 45mms for good detail. The Z anti-backlash upgrade is the most noticeable improvement on surface detail, and I recommend everyone print and install this upgrade before anything else so the rest of your upgrade parts come out nicer. You'll need a few M3 aka 3mm nuts and bolts of various lengths - I couldn't tell you exactly what I used since I simply bought every bolt in every length available at Ace Hardware; very useful little bolts to have on hand for printed projects. Reuse the M5 nuts and bolts for the idler pulleys. Print Settings: Printer - Solidoodle2 HicTop Prusa i3; Rafts - Doesn't Matter; Supports - No; Resolution - 0.3mm; Infill - 60%; Notes: Print at whatever settings give you the least warping, with all of my models I try to account for shrinkage. PETG or ABS will be the best option, with PETG preferred due to low warping and higher heat deflection which matters with the hot end mount. The bearing mounts tend to be a little loose so print with high infill so they print a little fat; a couple layers of Kapton tape around the bearings gives a nice and secure fit - the tape also makes it easier to snap them into place.