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A remix of bartolomeus's extended extruder plate. I saw that the bowden always has to go upwards, then curve around. This helps to address the angle of attack where the tube attaches to the extruder, reducing friction a little bit and, I think, making the worst angles a little less bad. A short bowden tube is also a tube with a tight radius, so the idea is to minimize the worst-case bend, and ideally have about the same amount of bend everywhere along the X axis, so there's also a similar amount of slop everywhere. My theory is that this will give more consistent results for a given pressure advance value.Ideally, the extruder would be centered, rotated fully to face the front, and a couple of cm further back to avoid running into belts, etc on the top of the Z axis. if I get bored I might do that, or maybe somebody else will? Putting this much weight in the center of the X axis is really only feasible for a dual-screw system, or a system with a really good linear rail, but if you have that it's pretty nice.
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This model is compatible with most FDM 3D printers (Creality Ender 3, Prusa MK3S+, Bambu Lab, etc.) and resin printers (Elegoo, Anycubic). Check the original page for recommended print settings and materials.
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Check the license (see original page) on the original Thingiverse page. Most STL files can be modified using free software like Blender, TinkerCAD, or Meshmixer.