Soldering Fume Extractor

thingiverse

Soldering Fume Extractor Introduction This 3D printed soldering fume extractor uses a 12V PC case fan and USB-C PD board to provide 12V from a suitable USB-C charger, eliminating the need for a 12V 'wall wart' adaptor. Many 3D printed fume extractors exist, but I didn't find one that met my needs, so here's another option. This project also utilizes parts I had on hand. Bill of Materials Fasteners and Electronics The following non-printed parts are required: * 6 x Brass Hot Melt Inserts - M3x7 * 1 x USB-C PD Board * 1 x 120x120x25mm 12V DC Fan * 6 x M3x6mm Button Head Hex Screw * 4 x M3 Thin Nut * 4 x M3x30mm Button Head Hex Screw * 1 x 21x15mm SPST Rocker Switch * 4 x Rubber Bumper Feet 10x2mm * 1 x Activated Carbon Filter 130x130x10mm * 1 x USB-PD Charger with 12V capability * 1 x USB-C Cable Most 120mm PC case fans are suitable for this project. Ensure the fan is not pinched during assembly. Assembly After printing, insert two brass hot inserts into the fan housing and four into the stand. These can be easily pressed in with a soldering iron. Cut the connector off the fan and push the cable through the hole in the fan housing. Then push the fan itself into the fan housing, ensuring it's a tight friction fit. The screws used later are not to hold the fan in but rather to join the front to the back of the housing. Feed the cable through the hole in the stand, then screw the stand to the fan housing using 2 x M3x6mm screws. Place the baffle on the front and push through the four M3x30mm screws. Push the four M3 nuts into the positions on the rear panel and place the rear panel on, gently tightening the screws. Take the base and insert the USB-C PD board, ensuring the lip at the back of the PCB is preventing it from sliding backwards when inserting a cable. You will need to setup the USB PD board for 12V from start up. There is a small switch on the board; hold it down and insert the USB-C cable connected to a PD capable charger. The LED on the board will cycle rapidly through its colors. Let go of the switch, then press the button until the LED is red (5V), yellow (9V), and finally green (12V). Hold the button until the light goes out, then replug the board. It should power up directly in 12V mode. Check this with a multimeter before hooking up the fan. Before inserting the rocker switch into the stand, wire everything up, passing the wires needed through the front of the stand. I wired the switch inline with the positive fan cable and positive terminal on the USB PD board. Use your preferred method to hook up everything then screw the base to the stand, taking care not to pinch any wires. After testing to ensure everything works, you can install the rubber feet on the base. Finally, insert the carbon filter into the front of the baffle; it should be a snug fit and stay in on its own. Switch it on and give it a test to see how it works. Happy soldering!