SMuFF Electronics-Case (SKR+Relay+Buck) New

SMuFF Electronics-Case (SKR+Relay+Buck) New

prusaprinters

<p>Newly designed housing for the <a href="https://www.printables.com/de/model/194737-smuff-v6-smart-multi-filament-feeder-with-bondtech">SMuFF</a> controller.</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p><strong>Please notice: </strong><i><strong>Don't print this housing for the new SKR E3 V3.0 because the controller board is 4mm longer than its predecessors. It simply won't &nbsp;fit. Use the </strong></i><a href="https://www.printables.com/de/model/204136-smuff-electronics-case-skrrelaybuck-new-for-skr-e3"><i><strong>modified version here</strong></i></a><i><strong>.</strong></i></p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>This housing keeps the SKR E3 controller (-DIP V1.1/V2.0), the Velleman VMA 400, Elegoo 4 or SMuFF mini relay board, the LM2596 or SY8205 buck converter and a display (DIY OLED, LeoNerd's OLED Module, BTT TFT 2.4 or FYSETC 12864 Minipanel) all in one place.</p><p>Compared to its predecessor it's not as bulky and makes it quite more comfortable to work with. One can put it on a desk (nearby the printer/SMuFF) or mount it to the printer using a Gooseneck mount (HAMA fits best).</p><p>The display lid has to be printed flat and then bent to meat the upper angle. Right after it has been printed, let the bed cool down, then remove it from the bed, put it down on the bed again and heat up the bed to 5-10 deg. above the glass temperature of the material (60-70 deg. C for PLA, for example). Wait 10 minutes then bend the lower part until the gap closes.</p><p>This STEP files comes also with two lid templates for your own display integration.</p><p>The latest version can take a SMuFF mini relay board instead of the bigger Velleman or Elegoo relay boards and I've also added a GoPro mounting bracket as an alternative to the HAMA Gooseneck mount.</p>

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