Smart effector air pump tube holders & heatbreak water block

thingiverse

Air holds v1 - these hold 6mm tubes, I chose aluminum, but copper works fine too. They bolt below the board on each corner of the triangle. Dist v2 - This air distributor and retainer for water cooling tubing has a 10mm inlet port and 3x 6mm outlets. It retains two 6mm ID, 8mm OD silicone tubes with its two rings. V6 WC v3 - You'll get the lightest water cooling possible, but it's not for beginners. For this, you need to do some work, including destruction and creation. You'll need aluminum tubing of suitable size: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B014GXM3AG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (for a 22mm OD heatbreak that comes with the smart effector, just match the diameter of your heatbreak). Aluminum tubing for barbs: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BGXLNQW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Blue RTV seen here: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002UEOKK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1 If you decide to do this, please read the full instructions first and feel free to ask questions. This mod is not for the faint of heart. The benefits are lighter weight on the carriage and can print high temps/high temp enclosure without worrying about fans. With a Sharpie mark two lines across the fins opposite each other on the heatbreak, completely blacken the top and bottom fin. We DO NOT want to touch those. Mark a horizontal line on every odd-numbered fin on one side, and every even-numbered fin on the other side. Next put the heatbreak in a vise and file down to the tube at each horizontal line you've made. On one side, you should have two uncut fins on top/bottom, and on one side just one uncut. We are making a zig-zag pattern for water to travel through each fin before exiting the top *while retaining the top and bottom fins for the seal*. Clean up any burrs and lightly scribe/score on the top middle point on the side with more cuts. Cut your heatbreak aluminum tube you purchased to the height between the top and bottom fins. It can be a little too tall, just don't go shorter. Ideally, the tubing is very slightly undersized (like the tubing I linked if you're using the blue heatbreak) - Heat it with a torch evenly and it will expand until you can drop in the modified heatbreak. Let it cool and it will shrink and lock on to the heatbreak. Now with your scribed center line that you made earlier, Sharpie a line down the tube and make a horizontal mark 1.5mm from the top/bottom and file those areas through the tube and clean up with a razor. This will be your inlet and outlet port. Use RTV to seal the top and bottom - not paper thin but not slathered on either. If I had to guess, I'd say aim for 1mm thickness of RTV. Let that dry. Next apply thicker (about 2mm) RTV to the tube around the inlet/outlet and place the print as best you can with the holes lined up. Secure it to the heatbreak with a ziptie between the ports while it dries. Take the 6mm tubes and bend them to your needs, RTV into the ports - let it all dry and then use a retainer to keep them from rotating at all in the ports. The one included will only fit if your tubes are bent at the same angles. You'll need radiator/fan/pump/reservoir that you can decide on but it can now be located outside of the enclosure. Use G1/4 to 6mm fittings and silicone 6mm tubing all around. Labeling this as a work in progress, I don't have months of testing on it yet, but it has been working well enough for the past couple weeks to get this posted.