Small Lab Supply based on DP30V5A

thingiverse

I wanted to build a small bench/lab supply for my electronics work so I decided to try using the DP30V5A adjustable supply controller from Banggood.com: http://www.banggood.com/DP30V5A-Voltage-Converter-LCD-Constant-Voltage-Current-Step-down-Programmable-Power-Supply-p-1041746.html?rmmds=search. This great little unit costs less than $32 and does need an external power source, but I had an old 24V 5A supply handy. To build this project, you will also need: * A 40mmx10mm 24V fan (the fan voltage depends on your input supply voltage) * A Sermos/Anderson power pole connector for input power * Banana jacks for output connection * A power switch * 7 #2x3/8" screws * Some wire, etc. Print Settings: Printer Brand: MakerBot Printer: MakerBot Replicator Rafts: No Supports: No Resolution: .3mm, with 2 extra shells Infill: 30% Post-Printing Assemble the case by using thick CA glue to assemble the parts of the case. Glue the front panel to the base first, then the top. I found that I had to sand the bottom of the front panel a bit to get it to sit flush at the top. Getting a smooth finish is key, so I decided to try for a very smooth finish on the case by using Bondo auto body putty to fill in the gaps between the "noodles". This works for PLA, but not with ABS. I did this two times and wet sanded after each application had dried, first with 240 grit then 400 grit. It worked better than I had hoped, after spray painting it looked great! I used Krylon 2X spray paint. After Bondo and sanding, but before painting, the case looks like this: After painting, the case looks like this: Final assembly is easy. First, wire up the parts and then install them into the case. Install the banana jacks first, then the power switch. Then run the wires to the DP30V5A through the opening and connect them. After that, insert the unit into the front panel. I mounted the fan to the back with 4-40 nuts and bolts. I added a fuse block help on with a 6-32 bolt and nut. If you want to do that, you will need to drill a hole for it. The next thing was to mount the Sermos/Anderson power pole connector for the input power. It is held in place by a #2x3/8" screw and some thick CA. The final step is to use 6 #2x3/8 screws to hold the back panel on.