Slimer (nearly full size)

thingiverse

INSTRUCTIONS: This is a completely reworked version of MustangDave's original Slimer print. Like my life-size Terror Dog head remix, this is essentially the same set of instructions and methods. In essence, you are basically creating a puzzle from the printed parts here to assemble into a large-scale version of Slimer. Supports WILL BE NEEDED for specific parts. Just take a look at the part you're printing, and if it looks like it needs them, use them. RE SIZING and ROTATING parts: Be aware of your printer's build volume. As the parts are dragged into your print window for printing, they will initially be very small in size. These Slimer parts and pieces were resized to 3.5X the original file size. This may differ between various printers and their respective build volumes, so please be aware of your available space for printing. Certain parts are better off rotated for printer friendliness versus using unwanted support material. I assume no responsibility for a damaged printer if the builder is not aware of their build volume. What I did was to take each Slimer file, drop it into my software, and resize and rotate each one at a time to see if they would all fit. When done, I had 12 "Slimer pieces" that were assembled into the finished pic shared here. Dragging all the Slimer files into Netfab will show how all the final pieces are assembled together. To each their own process, but I have said...I am a firm believer in Gorilla Epoxy for projects like these. Then using various body fillers like spot putty or something close is very helpful. I myself don't like the idea of overworking my two printers I have, but they have performed beautifully. Many of these full-scale prints, I purposely use layer thicknesses like .04 and hollow infill settings like .03 to .05 because for me, the printing is not the final stage. I use fillers and such for final touch-ups and using a product like those Bondo tubes sold, where mixing is not necessary, makes EXCELLENT filler for the occasional pin holes or deviations and such. Now granted, you "could" just crank up your printer settings and use the best of the best settings in terms of layer thickness, infill, wall thickness, etc. However, you will have a very long and drawn-out print process and use MUCH more filament. For this Slimer, I used all these above-mentioned methods to complete an awesome Slimer. I painted him with many many coats of florescent green Plasti Dip spray which was amazing and even allowed him to bounce when someone dropped him. LoL Naturally, the face and mouth are hand-painted. Good luck folks!! Tried, tested, great results!!! NOTE: I noticed the "file" view here on Thingiverse makes the STL files in the pic section appear rather low-resolution. I'm not sure why, but the final printed and detailed Slimer "The green complete photo" as well as the finished printed parts and body assembly pic, are from THESE FILES. If memory serves.....I printed all of them out with a layer thickness of .04 so even though the STL files appear low resolution, the final result speaks for itself. This guy isn't glass-smooth....but neither was Slimer.