Slice Engineering Adapter for the SeeMeCNC Artemis SE300

thingiverse

This is all the parts you need to successfully adapt a Slice Engineering Mosquito or Magnum to your SeeMeCnc Artemis, Rostock or any printer using their SE300 hotend system. I printed in Nylon CF for maximum strength. I have not tested this for an extended period of time. Directions: #1 Print ALL Parts 100% infill. You will need two each of the "Washer" files, one Adapter, one Nut, one Y Adapter, three Cooling Risers, and one Tool. -- Keep this in mind... I have tested this with Nylon and CF PETG from Atomic and FilamentOne and both performed great. I would say the Filament One CF PETG is more rigid and therefore is what I used. PRINT EVERYTHING at 100% infill for maximum strength. #2 Clean and/or drill the holes on the Adapter so you can insert the provided mounting screws from Slice freely into the hole. This is crucial so you can align the Adapter to the top of the Hotend. #2 Test fit the Washer (should be loose) and the Nut (should be super tight). The Nut is not toleranced on purpose. We need this to be extremely tight with no wiggle. If yours is wiggly, Reprint it. #3 Assemble the Adapter to the top of the Mosquito using the two screws Slice provides in the mounting kit. #4 Install a small length of PTFE tube into the Adapter. In my tests mine was about 35mm. It should be pushed all the way through the Adapter and touch the top of the Mosquito. You need about six millimeters of PTFE sticking out the top of the Adapter. Make sure you bevel the inside of the PTFE only at the top of the tube. This is so the filament path is SMOOTH. #5 Put a washer over the Adapter. This will sit between the Adapter and the bottom of the effector. #6 I am assuming you have your Hotend assembled. However, it should be noted that you can use the SeeMeCnc stuff. It's high quality. In my case I used the Slice Engineering stuff. Here's the deal... take the Boron Nitrate (yes you need this). Take your heater block and put a small amount into the heater and thermistor hole. Slide in the Heater, all the way, and be prepared to catch the excess out the other side. Do the same with the Thermistor. Then, insert the retaining screw. Then, leave it alone for at least five hours. This is to allow the Nitrate Paste to dry and harden. The Paste is a key step that I couldn't find instructions for online and had to figure out on my own. #7 Assemble the hotend wiring according to your Duet configuration. #8 Make sure the orientation is facing the right way. There isn't a lot of room for the fan shrouds to cleat the heater block. There is really only one way to make it work. See my photos. #9 Take your complete assembly and install on your Artemis. Here are some setting notes... #1 BACKDOWN YOUR RETRACTIONS or your first prints will look horrible. The Mosquito and Magnum do not need that much retraction (See BrotherChris on Thingiverse and Chris Riley on YouTube). I use three millimeters at 100mm/s, whereas I was using six millimeters. Do some tests. #2 DO A M303 H1 S220 in the Duet3d terminal. This is a PID tune. You need to wait from room temp and idle, but I found this was needed. #3 DO A FIRST PROBE; On your duet web interface, go to settings, System Editor, and delete config-override.g and heightmap.csv then hit the emergency stop and let the Duet reset. After the machine restarts, hit the macro FIRST_PROBE. Okay... you should be good to go. Mine has been printing for about 24 hours at this point and all is good. I should mention I did use a cooling fan for the hotend. I used the stock SeeMeCnc 12v fan. I just found screws from another Mosquito installed and attached the factory fan. Please feel free to contact me if you need help or have questions.