SKR E3 Mini and stock Creality mainboard Electronics Enclosure - REMIX

thingiverse

<h3>UPDATE 7/15/20</h3> I'm back with a vengeance, having finally printed and assembled the latest updated versions of this enclosure. The holes all line up perfectly, and I've got the new buck converter mounts that are so much easier to assemble and out of the way now. I extended the bed wires (both thermistor and hot wires) and zip tied the cables so they're now a thick snake. Using CA glue, I attached the PSU box to the backside of it and knock on wood, it's still holding strong. If you decide to print and assemble this, make sure you have the ability to solder wires together (don't forget the heatshrink). You'll need to buy the stepper motor extension cables but apart from that, it works like a charm. I'm officially taking this off of work in progress. Post your makes and let me know if you have any ideas to add to this (I'm still really digging the buck converter mounts). <h3>UPDATE 7/4/20:</h3> I've fully printed it out and assembled it. The mounting holes for the SKR are a little too far inside the box, but you can still insert micro SD and cable, you'll just need a little screwdriver or something to push the SD card in and out. Also, the hole for the mini USB cable was not big enough for the blue cable that came with the board. The updated version should fix this. <h3>VERY IMPORTANT NOTE:</h3> Be careful when installing the buck converters! I found the mounting screws on the original version to get in the way while assembling the case. I took a screw out to pivot one, and couldn't get it back in so I used VHB tape to secure it back to the wall. Bad idea! The buck converter ended up pivoting inside the case and touched the top of the USB for the Raspberry Pi. I didn't notice this happening at first, so I highly recommend testing out your connections BEFORE attaching the bottom of the enclosure. I now have electrical tape covering the top of my Pi's USB to be safe (it did short out the fan before and I think caused some damage to my BlTouch). The updated left side now has clip-on secure attachment points for the buck converters, and I moved them so they're no longer in line with the case screws. Hopefully, they won't be in the way now. <h3>ORIGINAL DESCRIPTION:</h3> I had issues with fitting everything cleanly in the original version of this enclosure. I modified it so that now the SKR and Pi both sit on the bottom, and there are now openings in the left side so you can access SD card, mini USB, and the pi's USB and Ethernet. The only thing changed on the Right Side case is the placement of the mousehole, but I'm pretty sure that really doesn't matter. I only moved it while experimenting with positioning and was too lazy to move it back. The original right side case will probably work just fine as well. I also added a version of the back so that you can slide the Meanwell PSU into it and wire it through the hole at the bottom. Probably the only file that needs supports. Cura said it was a 9-hour job with tree supports, so I added them as separate files as well if you want to glue them together and save 2 hours of printing. <h3>SHOPPING LINKS:</h3> I highly suggest buying new stepper motor cables so you can actually pull the enclosure away from the printer. On the Ender 3, the Y motor cables are very short. I purchased this set: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07T245QVF/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I used these fans. They're very quiet. I bought one for the main board and one for the power supply. Didn't need a buck converter for the PSU fan. Everything is nice and cool now. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IOIKG68/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Lastly, I made some dome feet out of Ninjaflex TPU. I used VHB tape to attach them to the bottom and you can double up on the tape in corners to level it out if yours doesn't sit flat. Also, it stops the screws from scratching anything below it (like my acrylic table).