SKR Case Ender 3 and Ender 3 Pro

SKR Case Ender 3 and Ender 3 Pro

thingiverse

Update: Major change to the lids for both the Raspi and SKR Case. The original design had a major flaw, with the lids not fitting properly under the y-axis. This problem has now been completely resolved. Small adjustment made to the standoff positions for the Raspi. Update: Added a small cutout on the inside of the SKR case for the part of the sd card reader that extends outside of the board itself. This was done to ensure proper functionality and fitment. Update: Updated the dimensions for the usb and sd card opening for the skr case, based on the latest design from user towe: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3701548 Update: Removed the vrail on all the lids as it made it impossible to feed cables through the holes and then insert the lid in the vrail. This was a design error that was pointed out to me, and I've since corrected it. Update: Made an adjustment to the cable chain connection as it prevented the lid from sliding in. The Cable Chain connection is now flush with the case so the lid can move freely in. Already had 4 different versions of cases for the Ender 3 (Pro) available: Ender 3 Pro Case for SKR boards: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3683625 Ender 3 Case for SKR boards: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3558321 Ender 3 Case for MKS Gen L boards with UART/SPI: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3508238 Ender 3 Case for MKS Gen L boards with 4498 steppers: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3502425 All versions had cutouts for the y-axis rails, which made them only suitable for either Ender 3 or Ender 3 Pro. I liked Michael's solution from Teachingtech, where he stays under the y-axis while also considering airflow. So I remixed it, with some tweaks that I wanted for my specific case. For instance, the integration with the cable chain (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2920060) and the use of brass inserts for all nuts. The RasPi case has room to hold: - Raspberry Pi - LM2596 buck converter - Relay board - 40x40x10/20 fan As to the brass inserts, I use these: https://nl.aliexpress.com/item/Transkoot-450-Pcs-M2-M3-M4-Kits-Messing-Injectie-Moer-Koper-Insert-Gekartelde-Noten-Opruwen-Moer/32952263262.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.683d4c4dcaGOXU M3 inserts are used everywhere (except for the RasPi) and have a diameter of 4,3mm M2 inserts are used for the RasPi and have a diameter of 3,2mm The inserts need to be put in place while heated with a soldering iron so they integrate well with the PLA. The RasPi Lid comes in two versions: 1) In case you use the limit switch on the y-axis. This version has a cutout for the limit switch cable. 2) In case you use sensorless homing and have removed the limit switch. If you want to lift the whole machine up so there is better airflow under the case, I advise printing these feet in TPU: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3020865 STEP file included for your own alterations.

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