Silencer/Moderator Adaptor - two part

Silencer/Moderator Adaptor - two part

thingiverse

Sound moderator/Silencer/Suppressor adaptor for airgun. 2 pieces. Requires 4 x **M3 x 28mm** (or longer) bolts and nuts. To assemble, put the insert (Insert.stl) part into the adaptor part (Adapter.stl). Once tight and secure, put onto the barrel, and screw the 4 M3 bolts and nuts on. Due to the tight fit, I ended up needing to lightly tap the insert in with a 15mm pipe and hammer to get it secure, and it definitely felt properly secure. It's a pretty good friction fit. If the thread is too tight, print it thinner - 99.5% scale on the relevant axis. Keep it the same length - that axis should be 100%. - Print the adaptor part (Adapter.stl) on the flat side (as it appears in the slicer), no supports, no brims. - Print the insert part (Insert .stl) on it's side (as it appears in the slicer), **use supports (touching buildplate only), and a brim**. Assembly with a drop of superglue could work. The friction between the two parts is great enough I feel comfortable using it without. The heaviest sound moderator I tested with was 200 grams / 0.2 kg, absolutely no issue holding the weight. Included are F360 files. The barrel width is parameterised (barrelWidth) so you should be able to change it easy to fit your own barrel - go to Modify > Change Parameters> Sketch1 > barrelWidth. All files are available as one download - "all files.zip.stl". Download it and rename it to "all files.zip". Measure your barrel well before you print anything, so you definitely get the correct width for you. I didn't have calipers so printed out a sheet with round holes of varying sizes incrementing by .5mm each time to get the diameter. This is also a good idea since your printer is likely slightly out from actual distances, therefore this would give you a good idea of what you should be printing even if calipers tell you a good number. I've included the hole size measuring file I made, hole sizer.stl

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