Sidewinder X1 Easy Firmware Flash TFT Switch Mount

thingiverse

This is a remix of Jamizzl’s X1 Press Fit TFT Switch https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4132286 and Rics-3D video found here https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nR6NnRN3XjA WARNING- OPENING UP THE PRINTER BOTTOM VOIDS THE WARRANTY AS SECURITY TAPE ACROSS STEPPER MOTOR WILL REVEAL VOID WHEN OPENED FIRST TIME! POWER CABLE SHOULD ALSO BE UNPLUGGED BEFORE OPENING BOTTOM! PROCEED AT YOUR OWN RISK! I wanted a simple solution to avoid opening up the bottom of the printer every time I needed to flash firmware. Not that often, but for me this requires disassembly of a build chamber as well as the printer. I came across and studied Ric-3D’s video (with translations) to try to verify which wire was cut, I created a switch mount that didn’t require any holes in the printer base, no connectors, or external switches hanging off the side that might be susceptible to accidental dislodge. I used an old DPDT switch I had hanging around and slid the switch into this mount from the side without any screws or mounting hardware. (My switch is 10.5mm wide, body length 16mm, flange length 24mm, and body height 7.5mm.) (The channel is slightly wider than switch flange because of drawn material from tapped holes in my switch.) The mount then slides into the 20x40 extrusion alongside the motherboard. The intent is to power off the printer and simply flip this recessed switch (accessed thru the last vent slot alongside the USB connector) using a pen or small screwdriver, to disable the TFT screen for flashing. I did not want block any airflow into cabinet. I am including a second version of the mount with a long slot to accept a wide range of switches. The slots center the switch in line with the end vent hole and double as screw holes for the switch. Simply drill or cut a large enough hole for the switch travel in the middle of the slot. (You will end up with large key shaped hole with 2 slots on either end). Load the switch from behind, then screw the switch to the mount by aligning the slots with tapped holes in switch. You could also cut a large rectangular hole to fit your switch body and load the switch from the top using hot glue on back side. You need about 14-16” of 2 wire cable. Split each end and strip all 4 ends. Solder one end of cable to a switch. SPST switch is most suitable, although other switch types can be used. Please review the wiring diagram and photo included. You need to cut one of the 4 wires in the TFT ribbon cable, the one supplying the 5V power as identified. Separate the 5V wire from the other 3 with your fingernails so not to expose other wires and cut the 5V wire only. Peel back a few inches each direction and strip the end of the wires. You will need to solder (adding some heat shrink tubing prior) or crimp the 2 leads from the opposite end of the cable previously soldered to your switch. This solution works great and I’m hoping to not have to open up the bottom of the printer again. I’ve used the printer stock for about a year and just recently upgraded with a custom built probe, which required the firmware change. Take a look at my other sidewinder X1 upgrades: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4784042 Artillery Sidewinder X1 Extruder Cover V4 w/ Strain Relief https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4783250 Artillery Sidewinder X1 Left X Cover with Cable Strain Relief https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4774786 Bed Heater Strain Relief Artillery Sidewinder X1 https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4592828 V Slot Frame Spool Holder https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4563465 ASX1 Runout Sensor Lead In https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4839858 Artillery Sidewinder X1 TFT Plug Guide https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4849418 Light Bar (ASWX1 or other 2020 3D Printer Frame) https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4858847 Full Width Light Bar