Select Mini V2 Axis Bearing Mount

myminifactory

This was created for my brand-new MP Select Mini V2. Unfortunately, it seems like my luck hasn't changed since the new V2 mini had a longer X-axis arm, making the old clap system obsolete. It was off by about 4mm, so I built this new clamp to replace it. Thankfully, it worked flawlessly from the start. After using it for a while, I revised it slightly and added counter-sunk holes inside the bearing mount. For secure attachment of the bearing clamp to the X-axis bar, I used screws identical to those on my MP Select Mini's bed. Any small tapped head screw would also work fine - you'll need a longer screw to secure the bearing clamp to the X-axis bar, though. I decided to leave the bar intact since I believe it provides extra support. Product Links: * M3 Screws: http://amzn.to/2q7PdFK * Glass Bed Tape: http://amzn.to/2qMBntD * Vibration Pads: http://amzn.to/2r7oGg9 (available in 2x2 and 4x4) * PLA PRO- http://amzn.to/2q7UvkQ (a great material, in my opinion) * Bed Wires: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W1MqNMbGtDY (not my video) * Glass Bed: http://amzn.to/2rs14CN (or get a custom-cut one from Lowes for $2) Bed Wire Option: * https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2302588 * https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2179761 (use fan holes) Drill a new hole like the video. Silicone Wire: http://amzn.to/2q7zG8Z Some lessons I learned about the V2 - both good and bad: The control button has much better control now, which is great! Unfortunately, the bed still has issues. They added a cheap cotton blanket to the bottom that's barely taped in place, so you might want to fix that before printing. My bed was warped when it arrived, with a high point in the middle. Adding a glass bed fixed this issue, though. I used 3M adhesive tape for the glass bed and it worked outstandingly well - just be sure to cut the glass to leave room for your bed leveling screws. The hot end is slightly better now - it's a cheap E3D clone that performs as such, but it should improve over time. This machine was louder than my previous one. I even printed Z-Axis stabilizers for the inside tower and it still rattled, so I'm not sure what to do about that issue. The bed wires are still an issue - my original mini cut through them since they rub against the mounting blocks and pulley. I recommend rerouting them as shown below. It printed fine for three days before the bed thermistor went out, causing the bed to stop heating up completely. This was after it reached 120 degrees Celsius and I thought it might burn itself up! The X-axis pulley on the right side used to be metal, but now it's plastic for some reason. After a few days of printing, this pulley and gear fell apart almost entirely, scattering plastic pieces all over the X-axis arm. When it prints, the results are pretty decent for a $220 machine - with some mods and tweaking, I think it's still worth the price if you enjoy tinkering with it. The cooling fan is much quieter now, which is great. However, the cooling shroud design leaves little airflow left for part cooling. Unfortunately, I had to return this unit due to all these issues - my luck hasn't been great with cheap machines, so I hope the new replacement will do better.