SCOTT SPARK 2017-2020 Toolbox V2 (w/ hinge)

prusaprinters

<p>This is a remix of my previous design, which had no hinge. I thought that a hinge would be weak, but I did not test it. The previous design needed close tolerances and the lid system might fail on very rocky terrain.</p> <p>This is an improved version of the toolbox, the previous one has not given me any problem, but everything can be improved. Things improved:</p> <ul> <li>Thinner sidewalls (1,4mm to be exact)</li> <li>More accurate tolerances. If your printer prints it perfectly no sanding will be needed.</li> <li>It's 5mm shorter in length</li> <li>The zip tie holes are rectangular instead of circular</li> <li>The hole for the bolt is thinner (the bottle cage bolt of 12mm is a bit short)</li> <li>A strong but simple hinge mechanism</li> </ul> <p>As we are in quarantine due to the COVID-19 outbreak I decided to give a try to the hinge and it has blown my mind how strong it is, even with PLA, no metallic parts needed, the hinge axle is a piece of 1,75 [mm] filament, it won't break, believe me (READ THE MESSAGES AT THE BOTTOM!)</p> <h3>What do I fit into the toolbox?</h3> <ul> <li>1x Tubolito MTB 29" tube</li> <li>1x 20/25g CO2 cartridge</li> <li>1x CO2 cartridge head</li> <li>1x Topeak Mini 20 Pro</li> <li>A lot of zip ties very well organized and packed</li> <li>1x ParkTool TL-1.2 tire lever</li> </ul> <p>(and there is still some more room for maybe a key)</p> <p><strong>IMPORTANT. READ BEFORE PRINTING!</strong>: The hinge uses a piece of 1,75 [mm] filament. I have measured with a caliper and mines are 1,8 [mm] exactly. I can only guarantee the fit for a filament with that diameter.<strong>Post a comment if you need another diameter</strong></p> <p><strong>IMPORTANT</strong>: The version posted fits perfectly with an "SYNCROS TAILOR CAGE 1.0 RIGHT" bottle cage, the one that I have, cannot guarantee the fit with other bottle cages, but I can release a universal version if someone asks. The holes for zip ties have these dimensions: 3x1,6 [mm]</p> <p><strong>NOTE 1</strong>: Normally I tend to release the design in f3d, not this time, this thing has taken me so much time of design.</p> <p><strong>NOTE 2</strong>: Is splashproof, water enters, the SWAT from Specialised is not waterproof and neither my homemade toolbox for the bike is.</p> <h3>Print Settings</h3> <p><strong>Printer Brand:</strong></p> <p>Creality</p> <p class="detail-setting printer"><strong>Printer: </strong> <div><p>CR-10S</p></div> <p><strong>Rafts:</strong></p> <p>Doesn't Matter</p> <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong> <div><p>Doesn't Matter</p></div> <p><strong>Resolution:</strong></p> <p>0,2mm</p> <p class="detail-setting infill"><strong>Infill: </strong> <div><p>25%</p></div> <p><strong>Filament:</strong> SMARTFIL PETG Cobalt</p> <p><br/> <p class="detail-setting notes"><strong>Notes: </strong></p> </p><div><p>I recommend that you use these settings:</p> * 0,2mm layers (first layer too) * 3 outer layers (with 4 layers the weight increases by 20 grams and it's not necessary) * 4 bottom and top layers * Triangular or Cubic infill (better strength) * 25% infill is a good number, would work with less too. * Brim enabled (with PETG is necessary) * Supports are recommended, but not necessary. <p>Material:<strong>use PETG or something better</strong> (PLA is too brittle and layer adhesion is not so good, for this purpose a more flexible material is recommended as it will suffer a lot of vibrations and impacts)</p> <h3>Post-Printing</h3> <p>It has been designed for a perfect print, without the need for sanding, keep in mind that when sanding to will easily remove 0,2-0,5 [mm] of material.</p> <p>I have done some sanding for a better look (my machine is not perfect) and the gap at the bottom between the lid and the main part is noticeable because of the hinge, less than 1mm, nothing too important, but I think that I should warn about it.</p> </div></p></p></p> Category: Sport & Outdoors