Schmoo2 & Volcano (E3D J6 Hot End and Volcano Adapter)

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Schmoo2 & Volcano Anycubic Kossel Plus E3D J6 and Volcano Adapters Inspired to do a remix of an awesome E3D Hot end mount for the Anycubic Kossel, I thought I'd go on do my own version from scratch - the Schmoo2. I've also included a riser plate to allow the attachment of a Volcano hot end. Both options continue to allow the use of the printer's standard calibration hardware and as a bonus, the original mount for a rather weak 40mm blower has been substituted for a 40mm fan. You can also print the Bleh5 40mm to 50mm fan adapter for even more power! Note: I'd really, really suggest recalibrating your printer when swapping out these parts and when swapping between standard J6 and Volcano. Build: Do read all the instructions before starting and remember to take care. A wobbly and inaccurately fitted hot end will result in appalling print quality. 1) Print the parts you require. I find a 0.2mm Z height is more than good enough, but be sure to crank up the infill a bit - this is a load-bearing part. Also, you really ought to be using a heat-tolerant filament such as ABS. 2) Remove your J5 hot end and the standard mount, leaving the effector plate in place. You will need to replace the 40mm blower with a 40mm fan of your choice, along with adapting the wiring for the new 40mm fan and the new hot end hardware. Note: The duct you are using may no-longer fit as the heating block on the J6 is larger than the J5 3) The left and right halves of the Schmoo2 should fit snugly round the J6 hot end such that there are no gaps between the halves, and the J6 is held firmly in place with NO MOVEMENT. Some fettling may be required - either careful sanding of the Schmoo2 if it's too tight or the addition of a little heat-resistant tape around the neck of the hot end if too loose. Take your time over this; the accuracy of your printer depends on it. 4) Time to attach the new wiring and you're getting close! 5) A bit of final faffing routing the new wiring, and you're good to go! 6) Time to reset / recalibrate your printer FROM SCRATCH!!! At this point, I'd recommend also doing a hot end PWM calibration and plugging those new numbers in to your firmware settings. Volcano: The procedure is much the same. Do remember to include the riser plate in your build. My may want to invest in some longer effector plate mounting screws or just glue the Volcano riser to the Schmoo2. The Volcano hardware will need to be attached last, so take care routing the heating element and temperature probe wiring - there won't be much room. ...and don't forget to adjust your slicer settings. The volcano nozzle is likely to be bigger than the one you have been using, and half the point of a Volcano is to allow you to crank up your printer's speed a bit. Bleh5: This is a 40-50mm fan adapter for the Schmoo2. The design of the Anycubic Delta doesn't allow much room, hence the unusual design. But a happy bonus is this allowed the addition of a Bowden tube stain-relief. Don't go bananas with the size of your 50mm fan - there isn't a lot of room to play with; I'd suggest a slimline model for safety. - Print out your Bleh5, any (non-wobbly) material will do. - Note the picture above and glue it to your assembled Schmoo2 - Screw your chosen 50mm fan to the other end, and you're done! ...I would suggest checking the movement of your printer by hand once all is put together. There really isn't a lot of room, and you don't want to be hitting those effector rods.