Samsung Top Loader Washing Machine Clutch Replacement

thingiverse

**My original print has finally failed. I noticed there was an unintended thin wall printed in the middle of the part that aligns with a bug-fix in super slicer. ** ==================== I adjusted my settings again for Hatchbox blue PETG and a 0.4mm nozzle and got this blue part. Supports come away nicely if you're willing to put in the time of tedious post processing; and the part is virtually 100% on size, as designed. The interior gear teeth still need to be manually filed down--the goal being that you achieve a smooth enagement with the spline gear, and not a tight one. A tight fit on the spline is bad! --------------------- **I am sharing with the intent of discussing my experience and passing out my precise rebuilding in Fusion of the failed part in question.** Anything beyond this line is a comment about theory and *in no way am I attempting to instruct anyone on how to fix their washer,* as that could be dangerous in multiple ways, considering it is a HP rated system running on a 220v appliance line. *This would be considered a **"print and install at your own risk"** replacement clutch element for many Samsung top loading, and front loading, washing machines* (some dryers too?)... Provided that I wasn't sharing this _solely for decorative purposes, and do not claim to have a perfectly sized, perfectly safe, replacement element that could be printed on any additive (personal, or otherwise) manufacturing system._ --------------------- If your washer uses this assembly (and has broken off bits of that assembly), this is the clutch element that, with a bit of post processing on support removal and interior teeth filing and fit checking, should work for you--and with the right material, a solid amount of time. Assembly with Original Component: https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-DC97-18439A-Original-Equipment-Manufacturer/dp/B07B3RY9N8 _Again, I don't guarantee that this is even a safe replacement. Proceed with caution! 220V and printed parts may not mix nicely! I reverse engineered it from my split-in-two-pieces clutch remnants. It took a few model variations and versions and two prints to get right for our specific use case._ --------------------- Backstory: Our clutch split into two, and the basket-mating gear plate has lost some teeth (about at third). With just a clutch element replacement, we're another month in with what's still a healthy washer, just with a poorly chosen drive mating system. --------------------- Don't use the gcode if you're not printing PETG and of the same kind. PETG is finicky and it is specifically tuned for Hatchbox Dark Pinkish PETG. (This has been the best PETG I've worked with, both in its excellent crystallizing/bonding of layers and precision without any tedious slicer adjustments. I print on an Ender 5 Plus, running Klipper, Very high acceleration (5-8000k in x,y) and had used a copperhead heatbreak and hotblock for this particular print. A .3mf file is included (don't use the original without reslicing, read the top paragraph!), that when opened in **SuperSlicer** (_PrusaSlicer, or Slic3r may accept the 3mf, but do not contain the same expert options and may not be precisely compatible_), will reveal all of my tweaked settings and adjustments, as well as a button to eject a gcode immediately (just make sure you've pre-checked that my offsets / bed size / etc, won't produce an unruly tool path for you.