Saber

youmagine

Video of prototype: Print all pieces as shown in Assembly.skp or Assembly.stl. Test fit and trim, file, sand, etc., all parts as necessary for smooth movement of moving surfaces and tight fit for non-moving surfaces. Depending on the colors you chose and your printer settings, more or less trimming, filing, and/or sanding will be required. Assemble as per Assembly.skp (or Assembly.stl). I started by pressing the two frame halves together ("Frame Left.stl" and "Frame Right.stl") and then one by one, inserted a gear ("Gear.stl") with its associated components (either "Arm Axle.stl", "Cap Axle.stl", or "Cap Axle Eccentric.stl") into the assembled frame. I tested each gear assembly as I progressed to make absolutely sure each gear assembly rotated with almost zero effort and zero snags. If it did not, I removed the most recently installed gear assembly and trimmed, filed, sanded, etc., until it did. Once completed, you should easily be able to spin the entire gear train while holding onto "Cap Motor.stl" and spinning the entire assembly by hand. If not, disassemble and repeat the process, as this is a very important step. I've noticed that some of the pins and axle components don't want to stay in their respective sockets when printed on an Ultimaker 2. This thing was designed for a Replicator 2, which does not have the accuracy of the Ultimaker 2. I'll work to increase the dimensions of these components. For now, apply a small dot of thick cyanoacrylate glue to one surface of the hexagonal pin, let it cure (a shot of accelerant speeds this process), then replace it. Pay very exact attention to the initial orientation of the components "Cap Axle Eccentric.stl" and "Arm Axle.stl" as shown in Assembly.skp or Assembly.stl within the gear train for both sides. These orientations are critical to Saber motions, alignment, and clearances. Lubricate all moving components with petroleum jelly. Wire the motor such that it rotates counter-clockwise as viewed from the motor shaft. My Sabers run anywhere from 1.5 to 6 VDC. It was designed for use with the selected motor at 3 VDC, which minimizes noise while providing good motion. For break-in, after lubrication, I ran my prototypes for two hours at 6 VDC, then lowered the voltage to 3.0 VDC. They've been running for over a week now at 3 VDC. Comment if questions, and best of luck with this one! UPDATES: 1) I've uploaded a corrected "Head Right.stl." Sorry for any problems this has created. UPDATE: SABER.ZIP contains all Sketches design files I could locate.