Ryan's Ducted Brushless Whoop

thingiverse

Human: Here is the beta version of my Ducted Brushless Whoop frame design! This is a work in progress, but I have several printed and I feel like it flies GREAT! If anyone is really interested in testing it, but doesn't have access to a 3d printer, please direct message me! Comments and suggestions are HIGHLY WELCOME! On to the good stuff: Features: - Fits 26mm x 26mm AIO whoop boards - Pusher configuration with top mounted battery for improved center of gravity - Fits 0703/0802/similar size/mount motors (6.6mm diameter x 1.4mm hole) - Ducts (obviously) - Weighs only like 16 grams according to my scale! My scale isn't precise at low measurements, 37g finished with Snapper7 components - 15x15 camera mount between front props. No props in cameras, lower overall profile - Cheap, fast to print (4 hours for everything, on my slower direct drive setup), easy to swap and replace - Easy assembly! Should line up nicely if you print in the same plastics and same settings - It's pretty darn durable. It can be fixed with superglue or electrical tape usually, or just print several spare frames and swap hardware - I've crashed it pretty hard, into metal objects, but only flying 1S indoors right now-- I think I might spread a layer of silicone caulking over the front ducts if I have issues with durability when I start testing 2S I have been flying this around, and I believe it is smoother and more efficient than the Snapper 7 frame I originally had. I will be conducting more scientific tests, and testing on 2S, once I get more parts in the mail! I have gone through a few iterations, and arrived at this design that prints in 3 pieces that need to be superglue'd together, but lines up really easily with the addition of the alignment rings and it almost clicks together! The first iterations required more manual lining up, but adding some "alignment rings" made things easy and added negligible weight. Ducts must be printed spiralized to get them uniform! I've tried and tried with PLA to get them to print without warping of somekind, but the z seam usually causes issues. Spiralized printing avoids this, but also means you are limited to one wall for ducts. I considered putting on a larger nozzle to print thicker ducts, but 0.4mm across the board is far more convenient-- so far no major issues. PAY CLOSE ATTENTION TO YOUR SLICER! 0.2mm layer height and 0.4mm line width generally works best, and is what I had in mind when designing. Zoom in and see what it is doing in the preview, especially on the ducts. Cura likes to leave a weird open gap sometimes on the first layer. I "push" the duct model into the build plate 0.05mm (set z to -0.05) and that solves it for me. I have been printing in PLA (various kinds) on my Ender 3 Pro with great results, but do check the preview for slicing to ensure the smaller features print properly. WANT IT IN CARBON FIBER LIKE I DID? 1.5mm Carbon Fiber frames available through Armattan Productions https://armattanproductions.com/pages/product_details/23504 (these will require some better manual alignment on the ducts. Weights and pictures will follow when I get my first batch!!!) My Cura print settings: Main Frame: Slice at 0.2mm, initial layer 0.3mm. 1.0mm top/bottom thickness, concentric pattern. 96% infill, cubic. Print thin walls off. 0.4mm line width. Duct Ring: Same as main frame. Ducts: Spiralized (smooth contours enabled), 0.2mm layer height, 0.3mm initial layer, 0.4mm line width. 0.4mm bottom thickness, concentric. Print thin walls enabled. No infill. Remove empty first layers, BUT DOUBLE CHECK! Cura likes to put a small "gap" in the first layer for some reason. I fix this by "pushing" the model into the build plate 0.05mm before slicing, see examples.