RWBY Adam's katana - Wilt and Blush - WIP

thingiverse

WORK IN PROGRESS (unlikely to continue anytime soon) This is a model of Adam Taurus' 'Wilt and Blush' katana from the show RWBY created by Rooster Teeth. I initially planned on completely printing it, but I'm not satisfied with the design. It might be useful for someone else, so I'll upload it anyway. I designed this in Autodesk Inventor (similar to Fusion 360), which is why everything looks so linear and challenging to edit. I'm terrible at blender, so I stuck with what I knew, even though Inventor isn't ideal for such a model. Major design flaw: due to fear that the blade would be too flimsy, I made it an astonishing 15mm (0.6 inch) thick. It is strong but also heavy. Newer versions have a thinner 7mm (1/4 inch) blade. In practice, the sword appears quite bulky. Additionally, the proportions of the hilt seem somewhat off. file overview: Wilt.ipt: A full model of the katana Blush.ipt: a full model of the hilt Wilt_BladeSeg.stl: a 180mm long segment of the katana blade Wilt_Tip.stl the tip part of the katana Wilt_Hilt.stl: the hilt of the katana Wilt_Dowel.stl: connector piece for assembling the sword PRINTING INSTRUCTIONS (katana only) I broke up the katana into pieces for printing. I did the same for the sheath, but not for the entire model (if you really want, I can post what I already did; just leave a comment). The katana can be made by printing 3 blade segments, 1 blade tip, and 1 hilt. You'll also need 4 dowels to connect everything. I suggest printing the blade segments and tip on their back (not standing up), so that the layers are in-line with the blade. For aesthetics, it's better to print without brim since it leaves ugly edges; however, if you have adhesion problems, a brim won't ruin your model. Print everything with supports enabled, this is only for the slots for the dowels (my future design should be able to be printed without supports entirely). They're a pain to remove but not impossible. Printing the dowels should be easy enough. Again, no brim, this time because it makes it hard to insert them into the slots. Unlike the blade, the hilt should be printed upright, with the guard on the bed (as if your katana had pierced the bed). Supports should be enabled again, simply for the dowel slot. The pommel has a 45 degree chamfer, which should prevent the need for supports in that area.