Rust-Ring-Be-Gone

thingiverse

Cans often leave annoying rust-rings on bathroom ceramics. The culprit in my particular case was a shaving-foam canister. This clip has saved me a lot of trouble. Check out this YouTuber's build and review of the ring! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FzyJQTmmqSw With a ferro-based canister, rust-rings need three more ingredients to form - water, time, and contact. This minimalistic clip helps by adding distance between the can and the ceramic (i.e. no physical contact), adding slopes and drainage, so that water doesn't stagnate under the canister, and adding ventilation-gaps so that any water that does get under shall evaporate easily. As an added bonus, it might make your canisters 'stackable'. I've used mine on a Gillette canister having base-OD of 57.6mm and cap-OD of 55.8mm. You can measure your particular canister and scale the model accordingly; the dimensions are pretty forgiving. For fine-tweaks (after printing the model), if needed, dip it in hot water (almost boiling) and let it mould to your particular canister. This method can enlarge as well as shrink the clip by a few %. On my canister, both the base and cap go on with a satisfying "click". Print Settings Rafts: Doesn't Matter Supports: Yes Resolution: Typical 0.4mm nozzle; 0.3mm z-layers Infill: Heavy Notes: The grippy-fingers (the five pointy things holding the canister) need good inter-layer-adhesion - otherwise they'll snap. I printed with ABS and also PLA and at a temperature slightly higher than normal to enhance inter-layer-adhesion. The water-vent arches (i.e. on the bottom-half) need support. The grippy-fingers do not. Post-Printing The usual cleanup is needed after removing supports. Shrink or expand with hot water, if needed, to make an exact fit. (see above) How I Designed This Measurement with calipers, followed by 3d-sketching in FreeCAD with basic geometric shapes, Boolean operations, and fillets.