Rostock Mini Modifications

thingiverse

After calibrating the three towers, the nozzle was too high in the center. To fix this, measure the DELTA_CARRIAGE_OFFSET and change it from 22 to 21.5mm in the configuration.h file of your firmware. If the nozzle is too deep in the center, make this value larger. This adjustment is necessary because the theoretical values in the firmware didn't match up with the actual printer, causing the inverse kinematics to not work correctly. It's crucial to secure the endstop-trigger M3 screws with glue for proper bowden extrusion setup. Fine-tuning is essential for optimal performance. Additionally, fix the Bowden Gear as it got loose and caused retraction issues, resulting in poor print quality. I uploaded a new mount to address the issue with the original fan design. Currently, I'm using a J-Head MKV extruder, which has significantly improved results compared to the MakerGear extruder. The J-Head reduces ooze and eliminates curling entirely. Repetier firmware is recommended for its native support of Rostock printers. Set acceleration to 1500 for all axes and jerk to 15mm/s to prevent lost steps. Increase the start and end speed for the extruder to 100mm/s. Using Repetier-Host + Skeinforge for slicing is strongly advised, as the dwindle feature effectively combats ooze. I've uploaded my basic skeinforge settings for reference; however, temperature and cooling fan control remain manual adjustments. For improved adhesion of the first layer on the glass surface, apply a mixture of 3 parts water and 1 part wood glue. It can be easily removed using a sponge and warm water.