Rostock Max V3 Enclosure Parts

thingiverse

Update Dec 2017: Printing and assembling this project can be tricky for some, so it's best to stick with it only if you're comfortable making adjustments to the printer settings and parts themselves. The main challenge lies in fine-tuning the clear sheet's thickness and the gap between the plates. Experimenting with slicer settings and test prints will help you achieve a reliable fit. This small set of parts can be used to create an attractive enclosure for a Rostock Max V3 printer. The parts form a ring that sits on the outer diameter of the Rostock frame, supporting a 1mm thick sheet of clear plastic. The ring is divided into 12 pieces, resulting in only four unique 'plates' due to the triangular symmetry of the Rostock. To assemble two complete rings for the upper and lower supports, you'll need to print six each of the four plates. The plates are held together with tabs, featuring two sizes: normal and short. The short tab holes are 4mm closer together, allowing you to adjust the fit based on how your plates come out. When using short tabs, sand off 2 mm from the end of the plate for a snug fit – an easy task if you have a belt sander handy. It's recommended to print 12 short and 12 long tabs initially and see how they fit. The screws required are 4-40 x 3/8 inch long. I created magnetic tabs that allow one third of the ring to detach, making a removable door that provides ample room to access the printer without removing the full enclosure. The magnetic tabs hold 5.08 mm diameter neodymium magnets and require trimming 2mm off the edge where you choose to use them. I obtained a 4x8 foot sheet of 1.04 mm thick clear PTEG locally for $50, cutting it to size after fitting the rings to my liking. The plastic required some nudging with a small hammer to fit into the groove in the plates – a tight fit that helps hold everything together. To prevent the plastic sheet from bowing outwards at the open ends, I used thin aluminum angle and strong 3M double-sided tape. Drill holes in the aluminum and screw it into the magnetic tabs for a secure square hold. Once assembled, glue everything together using WELD-ON #3 Acrylic solvent cement, which dries in a few minutes to an hour and welds the parts together. This adhesive works well with most 3D printable materials, including ABS, PETG, and PLA. When installing, disconnect the bowden tube from the extruder cold end and drill a hole in the plate for the tube to pass through. The enclosure uses tabs to hold the rings in place even with the inner surface of the Rostock frame. Cut the sheet plastic to a height that allows the tabs on the top ring to just touch, then use black gaffer's tape between the ring plates and the Rostock frame for a tight fit. Note: I found that different filament materials shrink at varying rates, sometimes resulting in a ring that's too tight or loose. Experiment with short and normal tabs until you achieve the perfect fit, or try scaling in your slicer – printing larger than needed and sanding down to fit is also an option.