Rostock Max v3 Enclosure

thingiverse

I conceptualized an enclosure and, as is often the case, I discovered that timkloss had already designed it. Instead of creating a new design from scratch, I chose to use his model and make some modifications. The entire project was created using only the Windows 10 3D Builder application, which allowed me to test its capabilities. For specific details, please refer to the included .3mf and .obj files. In the .3mf file, the black pieces will need to be sourced from the original design by timskloss as they remain unchanged; the white piece was only slightly modified due to a reported defect, which I rectified using 3D Builder. For my enclosure, I utilized .040" clear PETG. The surround measures 993mm x 708mm, while the door is 490mm X 693mm (your dimensions may vary slightly). I acquired a full sheet for ~$55 from www.alroplastics.com The surround/door frame consists of four pieces of 1/4" AL plywood edge (two 70cm and two 68.5cm, your measurements may vary). The door closure features twelve 8mm x 3mm neodymium magnets, with two per hole and alternating polarity. These magnets can be found at most hardware stores; mine were from Amazon and leftover from another project. For the door hinge, I employed two 30cm piano hinges, countersinking the screw holes and printing MagnetShimx3 to secure them (one per screw). "Gapped" and "Notched" tabs should be used on the top of the top and the bottom of the bottom, while "Shallow" tabs are utilized against the wooden plates (i.e. Extruder/ Display). Use whatever number works best for you. I printed this in ABS on my Prusa i3 Mk2s, which already has an enclosure, and almost every joint is "glued" using an ABS/Acetone slurry. The tabs are secured using 6mm and 12mm long 3mm screws with lock nuts. In retrospect, I feel that combining more pieces before printing them (door corners) would have added more strength but isn't entirely necessary. The thermometer enclosure originates from Noircogi's design and was scaled for this specific thermometer: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M5BCIFR The model with a Molex connector has a wide input voltage range and can be wired in directly; I secured the probe to the underside of the printer using Kapton tape. I also filled the hole so that it can be easily printed and used for my other two printers, simply drill a hole where needed. Please leave any questions in the comments, especially if I seem to have omitted any details, as I created the pieces as I needed them and likely left out something.