Rostock Max v2 Enclosure

thingiverse

These are the brackets you will need to build an enclosure for your Rostock MAX V2. You will require three base and three top pieces. The build area of your printer can accommodate printing three at a time. Locate the brackets on the extrusions and secure them to the rostock's top and base using 6-32x0.75" bolts with nuts (M3 x20mm bolts also work). You will need to drill holes in your printer for this purpose. I used one sheet of 36"x48"x0.093" acrylic, available at Home Depot. Cut all sheets to a length of 29 inches using a plastic scraping cutter or saw. Cut the 0.093 inch sheet into three widths of six inches and two widths of twelve inches for the enclosure sides. All hardware consists of 1/4-20 nyloc nuts and 1/4-20 x 7/8" SHCS, but I recommend using 1 inch length bolts since mine did not reach the nylon in the nuts. To seal the case, use silicone and foam tape on the seams to eliminate all gaps for optimal insulation. For the door, simply buy door hinges at your local depot and use a soldering iron to make holes in the acrylic because it cracks easily with a standard drill. You will need this layer fan mount to clear the enclosure when printing towards the extents of the build plate: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1700221 I used this 40mm mount to cool the extruder stepper: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1705843 To power the 40mm fan, I wired it to a rocker switch next to my printer lights and ran a pair of 20ga wires down the X-axis extrusion for the fan. If you want to illuminate your cabinet, here is the rocker switch box I modeled: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1421639 and here are the extrusion mounts for the LED strips: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1702064 Print Settings: Printer Brand: SeeMeCNC Printer: Rostock MAX Rafts: No Supports: No Resolution: 0.3mm Infill: 30% Notes: I used PLA, but any filament should work just fine. Post-Printing