Roof Rack Blocks

prusaprinters

<p>Several years ago, when I got my 2015 Subaru Outback, I wanted to upgrade my roof racks because the factory system is crap. After much searching, it became obvious that the available after-market mount options to get to a system that could actually carry some weight were all garbage (sorry Yakima, they just are). In the pursuit of a workable solution I made a few prototype versions built off of the factory mount points using aluminum blocks, motorcycle handlebar brackets, etc, etc. that all worked extremely well, allowing me to stack ungodly amounts of crap on the roof. Double kayaks plus a full load of camping gear? No worries (see pic)!</p><p>However, the blocks were never anything even approaching elegant, but not having the skills to cast aluminum I just sort of accepted that they would be high functioning, ugly pieces of crap.</p><p>Then along came the 3D printer and I was finally able to refine the design to something equally as capable, but I think really nice looking too. These are printed from Polymaker PolyMax Tough PC which is an adventure in itself, but once you get the hang of it it's not bad. (On a side note: I also found out that PETG printer parts aren't sufficient for 110 degree bed temps, when they are attached directly to the bed).</p><p>PolyMax Tough PC is exactly that…tough! The stuff is wicked strong and flexible (meaning not brittle), so I have little doubt that these will function extremely well.&nbsp;</p><p>Print orientation in the 3mf files is intentional, to put the layer lines in the strongest direction possible for this build. It would be nice to print them flat, but the lines would be parallel to the bars and that would be a poor choice.&nbsp;</p><p>I've included a few old pics so you can see the progression.</p><p>I have no idea if these would fit other generations of Subaru, but I suspect they might. I can only attest to the Gen 5 fit for sure though.</p><p>All bolts are M8, and the bottom is tapped for the top 4. I thought about running those top bolts all the way through and using a rivet nut from the bottom, but the PC holds a thread excellently, so no need.</p><p>Pull the 3mf files for my print settings…..0.30 layers, 0.40 nozzle, 100% infill, no supports.</p>