
Roller Filament Dryer - Modular
prusaprinters
Basic modular filament dryer rollers. A reptile heater pad 15cm x 28cm can be fit to the underside to provide heat. To best conserve heat/air in the box I suggest opening the dial controller on the cable for the heatpad and de-soldering/cutting the cable to fit through a hole just small enough in the box (I melted the plastic using the solder iron tip to just the right size) and feeding the cable through from the inside and then re-soldering it back together inside the controller housing. Longer or shorter heat pads can be used depending on your needs as to how many roller spools you may wish to use. They can be attached using M3 bolts, roughly 20-25+ mm length, or simply zip-tie them together through the mounting holes.The spool spindles simply sandwich together and fit into standard 608ZZ bearings available quite cheaply on Amazon.The temp/humidity gauge is also available from AZ and seems to be a very standard shape. The housing just screws to the side of the box again using M3 bolt/screws anywhere from 5 to 10 mm long (longer isn't a problem). I also used the melt a small hole technique with the soldering iron for these. This overall design is quite common and available by a bunch of other good designers. I only built my own because I wanted more of a pointed end so that it can sit flat through the silica beads in the bottom of the box and not have to try and "nest" through them using a more normal flat bottom. I also wanted a spindle with a more concave shape than flat to help the filament spools better self-center themselves. This design can also be used with most any "storage box" available from any store that you choose and then adjust your number of units to the size you want. The heat pad really can only be a 15mm wide unit but the length can be any of those available also depending on how many you wish to use. The 28mm length works well for 3 spool units, like these pictures are. If you plan to feed the filament out the box directly to the printer I might suggest cutting the bottom "pointy" feet from the model before printing to give more room to be able to then attach it to the bottom of your box and fix it's position. If need be, I could re-design for you and just add it to this file.Let me know if you build it and how it works for you, good-luck, thanks.
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