Robocat lowrider Mk2

thingiverse

I didn't even build Mk1; I had a better idea and went lower. So, I put ESC's on the arms, electronics in the middle, and now the battery can be on the main plate where it belongs. I added space underneath for power cables and a PDB. This is the "power deck." It has the original upper plate as the bottom plate, supporting "robopower.stl." The power deck has spaces for a noise filter and 2 BEC's: one 5v for the FC and one 8v or 12v for video. I'll use 6.5mm spacers for this setup. You could put a normal PDB in there if you like; just select 4.5mm spacers, as most PDB's are 2mm thick. Put 2 of the 8mm spacers at the back. Now you have space in the center of the flight controller, VTX, and RX. "Robofront2" fits a HS1177 camera; "Robofront3" fits a board camera with small walls to help keep the battery in place during a crash. "Roborear2" is really just for this purpose alone and has no other function. Both the front and rear are fixed in place with 25mm standoffs. See the build photos in the post-printing section. You'll need 4x 30mm M3 screws to put it together, or be clever and cut some screws to make M3 studs. I'd finish off this build with these skids by PeteDee: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:810325. Printer Settings: Printer: Malyan M150 and Mini Fabrikator Rafts: Doesn't Matter Supports: Yes Resolution: 0.2mm Infill: 100% Notes: The only part that needs support is the front; turn it upside down so you need less support, and it will print quicker. Choose support everywhere, so the camera mounts get support. Post-Printing: I'm using my homemade PDB and some voltage regulators. Like this, 30mm screws front and rear. Underneath with the spacers and power deck All the essentials go in the middle deck; see the 30mm screws come through. Put the top deck on, and some 25mm standoffs on the 30mm screws. I'm using a big 65C battery; I have 2306 motors, it needs the power. Holes in the top for screwing onto the 25mm standoffs.